Bouillabaisse

What makes it bouillabaisse

• Several kinds of Mediterranean rockfish, rascasse above all.
• Boiled fast so the olive oil emulsifies.
• Saffron and fennel; rouille and bread on the side.

Where it comes from

It began as what fishermen cooked from the catch they couldn't sell — the spiny, bony rockfish like rascasse. The name is usually explained as bouillir and abaisser: bring it to the boil, then lower it.

Now it's a restaurant dish, and Marseille is protective of it. It's served in two parts: the broth first, poured over toasted bread spread with rouille, then the fish.

How it varies

Bourride

White fish in a broth thickened with aïoli, no saffron or tomato.

Bouillabaisse borgne

'One-eyed' — a poorer version with an egg poached in place of fish.