Dishes · A classic of Filipino · Cebu and Luzon, each its own way
Lechon
Also Litson, Lechon baboy, Cebu lechon
A whole pig roasted slowly on a spit over charcoal until the skin is glassy and crisp — the centre of any fiesta.
What makes it lechon
A whole pig, turned for hours over charcoal.
Skin that shatters, basted so it blisters evenly.
Stuffed with aromatics (Cebu) or served with liver sauce (Luzon).
Where it comes from
The name is the Spanish for a suckling pig, but spit-roasting a whole pig for a feast is shared across the islands' festivals, weddings and Christmases. A lechon on the table says the occasion matters.
There are two schools. In Cebu, the pig is stuffed with lemongrass, garlic, spring onion and bay, and needs nothing on the side; around Manila, it's more plainly seasoned and served with a sweet, thick liver sauce.
How it varies
Lechon belly
A boned pork belly rolled round the same stuffing — a whole pig for a smaller table.
Lechon kawali
Pork belly boiled then deep-fried in a pan until the skin puffs.