Basil pounded with garlic, pine nuts, salt, parmesan and pecorino, loosened with olive oil and tossed raw through trofie or trenette.
What makes it pesto alla genovese
Young basil, pounded, not blitzed warm.
Pine nuts, garlic, and both parmesan and pecorino.
Raw — tossed with hot pasta, never cooked.
Where it comes from
Liguria's narrow strip between the mountains and the sea grows a small-leaved, sweet basil, and Genoa made it into its sauce, pounded in a marble mortar with a wooden pestle — the name comes from pestare, to pound. Written recipes appear from the nineteenth century, with older garlic-and-cheese pastes behind them.
In Genoa it's often tossed with trofie or trenette cooked in the same pot as green beans and potato. It's never heated — only stirred through the hot pasta with a splash of its water.
How it varies
Trenette avvantaggiate
With potato and green beans boiled alongside the pasta.
Pistou
Provence's cousin, just along the coast, usually without pine nuts.