Phở

What makes it phở

• A clear broth of beef bones, simmered for hours with charred onion and ginger, star anise, cinnamon and clove.
• Flat rice noodles, bánh phở.
• Raw beef sliced thin enough to cook in the hot broth, or cooked brisket — or both.

Where it comes from

Phở took shape in northern Vietnam, around Hanoi and Nam Định, in the early twentieth century. Where it came from is argued over: the name is often traced to the French pot-au-feu, while others point to Chinese rice-noodle soups — and the beef itself may owe something to French demand for it.

After the country was divided in 1954, northerners moving south took phở to Saigon, where it picked up bean sprouts, a plate of herbs and sauces on the table. Refugees later carried it round the world. It's eaten above all in the morning.

How it varies

Phở Hà Nội

The northern bowl: clean broth, spring onion, little else on the side.

Phở Sài Gòn

Sweeter, with bean sprouts, basil, lime, chilli, and hoisin and chilli sauce on the table.

Phở gà

Chicken, with a lighter broth.