Ratatouille

What makes it ratatouille

• Summer vegetables — aubergine, courgette, pepper, tomato, onion.
• Plenty of olive oil and garlic.
• Cooked soft but not to a purée.

Where it comes from

It comes from Nice, and the name is related to touiller, to stir. Like much of this cooking, it could only exist after the tomatoes, peppers and courgettes of the Americas had settled in.

Cooks argue about method: many insist each vegetable is fried on its own before they're brought together, so each keeps its taste; others cook them in one pot. It's as good cold the next day.

How it varies

Tian

The same vegetables sliced, layered in an earthenware dish and baked.

Confit byaldi

A modern take: thin overlapping slices baked over a pepper sauce.