Squares of ox tripe marinated in white wine and mustard, breadcrumbed and fried, served with a sauce gribiche.
What makes it tablier de sapeur
Ox tripe, already cooked tender, cut in flat pieces.
A marinade of white wine, mustard and lemon.
Breadcrumbed, fried crisp, and served with a sauce gribiche or tartare.
Where it comes from
The name means sapper's apron — the leather apron of a military engineer, which the flat, breaded pieces are said to resemble. The story usually told gives the name to a nineteenth-century military governor of Lyon, but it's one of several.
It uses gras-double, the thick first stomach of the ox, poached long before it reaches the frying pan. It's a bouchon standard, and a good test of whether a place still cooks the old way.