Thin, straight noodles in a cloudy, creamy pork-bone broth, with slices of chāshū, red pickled ginger and spring onion.
What makes it tonkotsu ramen
A pork-bone broth boiled hard until white and creamy.
Thin, straight noodles, cooked firm.
Chāshū pork, beni shōga (red pickled ginger), spring onion and sesame.
Where it comes from
Ramen came to Japan with Chinese cooks around the turn of the twentieth century and grew into many regional styles. Tonkotsu is Kyushu's: pork bones boiled hard for hours, until fat and collagen cloud the broth white. It's often said to have begun in Kurume, near Fukuoka, with a pot left boiling too long.
In Hakata, Fukuoka's old merchant quarter, the noodles are thin and served firm, and ordering kaedama — a second helping of noodles for the broth that's left — is part of the meal.
How it varies
Kurume ramen
Said to be the original: heavier and more pungent.
Kaedama
A refill of noodles, dropped into the broth that's left.