Chewy cylinders of rice cake simmered in a sweet, hot gochujang sauce with fish cakes and spring onion — Korea's best-loved street snack.
Its ancestor is gungjung tteokbokki, a court dish of rice cakes stir-fried with beef and vegetables in soy — not red at all. The fiery gochujang version is usually traced to Seoul's Sindang-dong in the 1950s, where there's still a street of tteokbokki shops.
Now it's sold from steaming street stalls everywhere, eaten standing up with twigim (fritters), sundae (blood sausage) and a paper cup of the fish-cake broth.