A pot of chicken broth at the table, filled with the rainy season's wild mushrooms — porcini, chanterelles, jizong and more — and simmered well before anyone eats.
What makes it wild mushroom hotpot
Several kinds of wild mushroom in one pot, in season.
A clear, rich broth, usually of chicken, sometimes with a little ham.
Boiled long enough before eating — the broth first, then the mushrooms.
Where it comes from
From about June to September the rains bring up wild mushrooms all over Yunnan's hills, and markets in Kunming and beyond fill with dozens of kinds. Hotpot is the favourite way to eat many at once: the broth, usually chicken, takes on all their flavours.
It comes with a rule. Some mushrooms are harmful if undercooked, so restaurants often set a timer and ask diners to wait — commonly quarter of an hour or so — before the first bowl is served.
How it varies
Jīzōng
Termite mushroom, prized for its sweetness, sometimes cooked on its own.