Bitter oranges

The sweet orange — for juice, zest, salads, and the sweet-sour of a sauce.

Kinds

Navel: Seedless, easy to peel, for eating — the winter orange.
Valencia: Juicier and later, into spring and summer.
Blood: Crimson-fleshed; see blood orange.

Knowing it

Where to buy: Heavy fruit with fine, firm skin. Unwaxed if you're using the zest.
Worth knowing: Zest before you juice.

Kitchens that keep it in

Andalucía — the south of Spain, from the Atlantic at Cádiz to the Mediterranean at AlmeríaAndalusianThe hot south: cold soups pounded from bread, oil and garlic, fish fried crisp in olive oil, sherry from Jerez, and a little something to eat with every drink.7 classics