The market · Seasonings and ferments · East Asia
Black vinegar
A dark Chinese vinegar, malty and mellow — sour with sweetness behind it.
malty · sour · sweet
What to do with it
Ibu Sari's Beef rendangBlack vinegar would cut through its richnessAna Etxarri's Pil pilBlack vinegar would cut through its richnessTolu Adeyemi's SuyaBlack vinegar would cut through its richnessTolu Adeyemi's Rendang, the Lagos wayBlack vinegar would cut through its richness
ShanghaineseXiaolongbaoSmall, thin-skinned steamed buns of minced pork, pleated at the top and full of hot soup, served in the bamboo basket they cooked in.No one here has made it yetShanghaineseHairy crabFreshwater mitten crabs, steamed whole in autumn and picked apart at the table for their sweet meat and rich golden roe, with ginger and black vinegar.No one here has made it yetZhejiangWest Lake fish in vinegar sauceA whole grass carp, poached briefly and then bathed in a glossy, sweet-sour sauce of black vinegar, sugar and ginger.No one here has made it yetBeijingBaoduBeef or lamb tripe cut into strips, dipped in boiling water for a few seconds until just crisp, and eaten with a sesame-paste sauce.No one here has made it yetBeijingJiaoziCrescent dumplings of thin wheat dough around pork and chives or cabbage, boiled and dipped in black vinegar with garlic.No one here has made it yet
SichuanKung pao chickenDiced chicken stir-fried with dried chillies, Sichuan pepper and peanuts in a glossy sweet-sour sauce.No one here has made it yetSichuanFish-fragrant aubergineAubergine fried soft, then braised in a sweet, sour, hot sauce of pickled chilli, garlic, ginger and spring onion — with no fish at all.No one here has made it yetSichuanChilli oil wontonsSilky pork wontons, folded small, in a pool of red chilli oil, soy, black vinegar and garlic.No one here has made it yet
SichuanKung pao chickenDiced chicken stir-fried with dried chillies, Sichuan pepper and peanuts in a glossy sweet-sour sauce.No one here has made it yetSichuanFish-fragrant aubergineAubergine fried soft, then braised in a sweet, sour, hot sauce of pickled chilli, garlic, ginger and spring onion — with no fish at all.No one here has made it yetSichuanChilli oil wontonsSilky pork wontons, folded small, in a pool of red chilli oil, soy, black vinegar and garlic.No one here has made it yetKinds
- Zhenjiang (Chinkiang)
- From glutinous rice; rounder, sweeter.
- Shanxi mature
- Sorghum-based, sharper and smokier.
If you can't find it
Chinese grocers, as Chinkiang or Zhenjiang vinegar.
- Half rice vinegar, half balsamicYou lose the malty, smoky depth.
Goes with
Knowing it
- Where to buy
- Chinese grocers.
- Worth knowing
- With chilli oil and a little soy, it's the dip for dumplings.
Kitchens that keep it in
Hunan province, south-central ChinaHunanHot and sour and smoky: fresh and salted chillies rather than Sichuan's numbing pepper, with smoked meats from the hearth and a fierce, quick wok.7 classicsShanghai, on the Yangtze delta, eastern ChinaShanghaineseSweet, dark and glossy: a port city's home cooking, red-braised in soy, sugar and Shaoxing wine, with soup dumplings, cold 'drunken' dishes and hairy crab in autumn.7 classicsZhejiang province, eastern ChinaZhejiangFresh, mellow and gently sweet: lake fish and river shrimp, young bamboo, cured ham and a good deal of Shaoxing wine, cooked to taste of themselves.7 classicsBeijing and the northern plain, northern ChinaBeijingA wheat-and-mutton kitchen of the dry north, salty and savoury with fermented bean pastes, where palace banquets and street snacks grew up side by side.8 classicsSichuan province, south-western ChinaSichuanBold and layered: the numbing tingle of Sichuan pepper with the heat of chilli — málà — alongside some two dozen named flavour combinations.11 classics