A menu by Ana Etxarri · Bilbao

Autumn, slowly

For a cold evening: a custard to start, cod in its own sauce, bread and butter to finish.

To start

  1. 1The one thing I have never got right twice runningGentle

The main

  1. 2Four ingredients and nowhere to hideRich, salty

To finish

  1. 3Rye does not behave and I want to know why · from Kenji HaraSalty, bright

With the bread

  1. 4Two ingredients. Everything that matters is process. · from Ida FenwickRich, salty
1234RichnessSaltHeat
RichnessSaltHeat
  1. 1 gentle
  2. 2 rich
  3. 3 salty
  4. 4 rich

Builds all the way to the oak-smoked butter: rich at the end.

The heat comes with the pil pil; the sourdough, 100% rye cools it.

Richness and salt lead the table.