Skewers of beef heart marinated in ají panca, vinegar, cumin and garlic, grilled over charcoal.
Skewered, grilled meat is older than the Spanish in the Andes, and the name is usually said to be Quechua. The beef heart is often traced to enslaved Africans in colonial Lima, who were left the offal and made it into something people queue for.
They're an evening street food, cooked on carts and brushed with the marinade as they grill — and served with a potato and corn on the end of the stick.