Baklava

What makes it baklava

• Dozens of sheets of fine pastry, each brushed with butter.
• Pistachios or walnuts between the layers.
• Cool syrup over hot pastry, so it soaks in but stays crisp.

Where it comes from

Its origins are argued over across the old Ottoman lands, and layered-dough sweets have roots in both Central Asian and Byzantine cooking. What's generally agreed is that the Topkapı Palace kitchens made it a thing of ceremony: trays of baklava are said to have been carried in procession to the Janissaries during Ramadan.

Gaziantep's pistachio baklava is the one many Turks hold up as the finest, and it has protected status in the EU. It's cut in diamonds or squares and eaten fresh, while the bottom is still crisp.

How it varies

Fıstıklı

With green Antep pistachios — the Gaziantep way.

Cevizli

With walnuts, common in the west and at home.

Şöbiyet

Folded triangles with cream as well as pistachio.