Thin layers of filo wrapped round a warm semolina custard, baked, cut into squares and dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.
What makes it bougatsa
Filo stretched very thin and folded in many layers.
A semolina custard, not too sweet.
Icing sugar and cinnamon on top, served warm.
Where it comes from
It's a Thessaloniki breakfast, eaten hot from the bougatsa shop with coffee. The pastry is often said to have come with refugees from Asia Minor in the 1920s, and its name is linked to the Turkish poğaça and, further back, to Latin words for hearth-baked bread.
The same pastry is filled with cheese or minced meat for those who'd rather start the day savoury.