Red wine in the pot as much as the glass, with Charolais beef, bacon, mushrooms, snails, mustard and the cheeses and hams of the hills.
Where it comes from
The Dukes of Burgundy ruled a rich state from Dijon in the late Middle Ages, and their feasts were famous across Europe. Monks at Cîteaux and Cluny are usually credited with shaping the vineyards of the Côte d'Or, and wine has been the region's pride and its cooking liquid ever since.
The everyday food is farm cooking: slow braises in red wine, eggs and bacon, snails gathered from the vines, and beef from the white Charolais cattle of the south. Dijon's mustard and spiced honey bread, and the blackcurrant liqueur for kir, carried the name further than the dishes did.
Auxerre and ChablisThe northern Yonne, where the white wine is steely and the gougère is said to have begun — handed round warm in the cellars at tastings.Gougères
The MorvanWooded granite hills in the middle of Burgundy, poor and remote, known for cured hams, game, mushrooms and a plain farmhouse cooking of potatoes and pork.Jambon persillé
Charolles and the CharolaisGreen pasture in the south where the white Charolais cattle were bred up — the beef most cooks in Burgundy would reach for to braise.Bœuf bourguignon
How it cooks
À la bourguignonne
Red wine, bacon, small onions and mushrooms — the garnish that marks a dish as from here, whatever's in the middle.
Marinating in wine
Tough meat left overnight in wine with onion and herbs, then the wine becomes the braising liquid.
Meurette
Red wine reduced with shallots and thickened with butter and flour, for eggs, fish or brains.
Parsley and garlic butter
Beaten together and packed into snail shells, or melted over mushrooms and frogs' legs.