The market · Dairy and eggs · Northern and Central Europe
Butter
Cream churned until the fat separates from the buttermilk.
creamy · nutty when browned
What to do with it
Rosa Ibarra's Clarified milk punch, mezcal and pineappleButter would soften its edgeIbu Sari's Sambal ijoButter would soften its edgeKenji Hara's Milk punch, with hojichaButter would soften its edge
MinahasanKlappertaartA soft baked custard of young coconut, milk and eggs, with raisins and cinnamon, often topped with almonds or meringue.No one here has made it yetMinahasanPanadaA soft yeasted dough folded around spiced, shredded skipjack and fried golden.No one here has made it yet
VietnameseBánh mìA light, crackling-crusted baguette filled with pâté, cold cuts or grilled meat, pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, coriander and chilli.No one here has made it yetMalaysianKaya toastToast spread with kaya — a jam of coconut milk, eggs, sugar and pandan — and slabs of cold butter, with soft-boiled eggs and coffee.No one here has made it yetFilipinoSisigPig's face and ears boiled, grilled and chopped fine with onion, chilli and calamansi, served on a sizzling iron plate.No one here has made it yet
CantoneseEgg tartA small tart of short or flaky pastry filled with a smooth, just-set egg custard, eaten warm.No one here has made it yetCantonesePineapple bunA soft, sweet bread roll under a crackled, sugary crust — named for how the top looks, with no pineapple in it.No one here has made it yetJapaneseMiso ramenThick, wavy noodles in a rich broth seasoned with miso, under stir-fried pork, bean sprouts and cabbage — and in Hokkaido, often sweetcorn and a pat of butter.No one here has made it yet
PunjabiButter chickenTandoori chicken simmered in a mild, silky sauce of tomato, butter and cream, scented with dried fenugreek.No one here has made it yet
PunjabiDal makhaniWhole black lentils and kidney beans, simmered for hours with butter, tomato and cream until thick and velvety.No one here has made it yet
PunjabiAloo parathaWholewheat flatbread stuffed with spiced potato, rolled thin and cooked on a tawa with ghee, eaten with white butter, yoghurt and pickle.No one here has made it yetPunjabiAmritsari kulchaA leavened flatbread stuffed with spiced potato, pressed with coriander seed, slapped onto the wall of a tandoor and served dripping with butter beside chole.No one here has made it yetGujaratiDabeliA soft bread roll split and stuffed with a sweet, hot potato filling, tamarind-date chutney, masala peanuts, pomegranate and sev, then toasted in butter.No one here has made it yetPersianTahdigThe golden crust of rice fried at the bottom of the pot and turned out whole — the part everyone reaches for first.No one here has made it yetPersianJoojeh kababPieces of chicken marinated in saffron, lemon and onion, grilled over charcoal and eaten with rice and a charred tomato.No one here has made it yetPersianKabab koobidehMinced lamb and grated onion pressed by hand onto wide, flat skewers and grilled over coals — served on saffron rice with butter and sumac.No one here has made it yetPersianZereshk poloSaffron rice scattered with barberries fried in butter and a little sugar — jewel-red and sharp — usually served with chicken.No one here has made it yetTurkishBaklavaMany sheets of paper-thin pastry layered with chopped pistachios or walnuts, baked in butter and soaked in syrup.No one here has made it yetTurkishİskender kebabThin slices of döner over cubes of pide, with tomato sauce, sizzling browned butter poured over at the table and thick yoghurt alongside.No one here has made it yetTurkishMenemenEggs stirred soft into green peppers and tomatoes stewed in butter or olive oil, eaten from the pan.No one here has made it yetTurkishMantıTiny meat-filled dumplings, boiled and served under garlicky yoghurt, with butter sizzled with red pepper poured over.No one here has made it yetTurkishPideBoat-shaped flatbread baked in a wood oven with cheese, minced meat or egg in the middle, brushed with butter as it comes out.No one here has made it yetTurkishÇılbırPoached eggs on garlicky yoghurt, with butter foamed with red pepper poured over the top.No one here has made it yetTurkishMercimek çorbasıRed lentils cooked with onion, carrot and a little potato, blended smooth, with red pepper butter and a wedge of lemon.No one here has made it yet
GeorgianKhachapuriBread filled with salty, melting cheese — the everyday food of Georgia, in a different shape in every region.No one here has made it yetGeorgianKubdariA round, closed bread from Svaneti filled with hand-chopped beef or pork, onion and Svan salt, baked until the juices soak into the crust.No one here has made it yetMoroccanPastillaA round pie of paper-thin warqa pastry filled with spiced pigeon or chicken, eggs and sugared almonds, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yetMoroccanMsemenSquare, flaky pan-fried flatbreads, folded over oil, butter and semolina, eaten with honey and butter and mint tea.No one here has made it yetCape MalayBobotieSpiced minced meat with dried fruit and soaked bread, baked under a thin savoury egg custard, with bay leaves on top.No one here has made it yetCape MalayKoesistersSoft, spiced, doughnut-like dumplings, fried, dipped in syrup and rolled in coconut — for Sunday morning.No one here has made it yetBasqueGâteau basqueA short, buttery almond pastry baked around a filling of pastry cream or black cherry jam, the top glazed and scored.No one here has made it yetAsturianArroz con lecheShort-grain rice cooked slowly in plenty of milk with lemon peel and cinnamon until creamy, then topped with sugar burnt to a crust.No one here has made it yet
ProvençalNavettesHard, boat-shaped biscuits scented with orange-flower water, dunked in coffee.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisQuenelles de brochetLight dumplings of pike and a flour-and-egg panade, poached and then baked until they puff, usually in a crayfish sauce Nantua.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisTablier de sapeurSquares of ox tripe marinated in white wine and mustard, breadcrumbed and fried, served with a sauce gribiche.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisPoulet de Bresse à la crèmeA Bresse chicken browned gently in butter, then simmered and finished in thick cream, often with mushrooms.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisGratin dauphinoisThinly sliced potatoes baked slowly in milk and cream with garlic, until soft underneath and golden on top.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisTarte aux pralinesA pastry case filled with crushed pink sugared almonds melted into cream, which sets into a glossy, vivid pink filling.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisBugnesStrips of enriched dough fried until puffed and crisp, dusted heavily with icing sugar, made for Carnival.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisRavioles du DauphinéTiny squares of pasta filled with cheese, fromage blanc and parsley, poached in stock for a minute or baked in cream.No one here has made it yetAlsatianKougelhopfA tall, fluted ring of buttery yeasted dough with raisins soaked in kirsch, an almond set in each fold, dusted with icing sugar.No one here has made it yetAlsatianSpaetzleSoft little egg noodles made from a thick batter pushed through a board or press into boiling water, then tossed in butter.No one here has made it yetAlsatianBretzelA knotted bread dipped in a lye bath before baking, so it comes out deep brown and shiny, scattered with coarse salt.No one here has made it yetAlsatianBredeleSmall Christmas biscuits baked by the tinful — butter shapes, anise, cinnamon stars, spiced and almond ones — through Advent.No one here has made it yetAlsatianFleischschnackaFresh pasta spread with minced cooked beef, onion and herbs, rolled up, sliced into spirals like snails, and browned before simmering in stock.No one here has made it yetNormanMoules à la normandeMussels steamed open in cider with shallots and butter, the juices finished with crème fraîche.No one here has made it yetNormanSole normandeSole poached in wine or cider and fish stock, garnished with mussels, prawns and mushrooms, in a sauce of the reduced liquor with cream and egg yolks.No one here has made it yetNormanTarte normandeApples in a pastry case, covered in a custard of eggs, cream and sugar, often laced with Calvados, baked until just set.No one here has made it yetNormanPoulet vallée d'AugeChicken browned in butter, flamed with Calvados, simmered in cider and finished with cream and mushrooms, sometimes with apples.No one here has made it yetNormanCanard à la rouennaiseDuck roasted rare, carved at the table, with a sauce made from its carcass crushed in a press and thickened with its own blood and liver.No one here has made it yetNormanOmelette de la Mère PoulardEggs beaten long and hard, then cooked over a wood fire in a long-handled pan with plenty of butter, until tall and airy, like a soufflé.No one here has made it yetNormanMarmite dieppoiseChannel fish and shellfish — sole, scallops, mussels, prawns — cooked in a broth of leeks and white wine or cider, finished with cream.No one here has made it yetBurgundianBœuf bourguignonBeef braised slowly in red Burgundy with bacon, small onions and mushrooms until it falls apart.No one here has made it yetBurgundianCoq au vinA cockerel or chicken braised in red wine with bacon, mushrooms and small onions, the sauce thickened with its own juices.No one here has made it yetBurgundianŒufs en meuretteEggs poached in red wine and served in its sauce, reduced with shallots and bacon, on fried bread.No one here has made it yetBurgundianEscargots de BourgogneSnails cooked, put back in their shells and stuffed with garlic and parsley butter, then baked until it sizzles.No one here has made it yetBurgundianGougèresChoux pastry beaten with grated cheese and baked into light, hollow puffs, eaten warm with a glass of wine.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestPastis gasconApples soaked in Armagnac under layers of pastry stretched by hand until you can see through it, the top sheets ruffled and crisp.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestCaneléA small fluted cake with a thick, dark caramelised crust around a soft custard middle, scented with rum and vanilla.No one here has made it yetBretonHomard à l'armoricaineLobster cut up live, seared in its shell, flamed with cognac and simmered in white wine, tomato and shallots with a touch of cayenne.No one here has made it yet
ItalianAranciniBalls or cones of cooked rice around a filling of ragù or ham and cheese, breadcrumbed and fried until crisp.No one here has made it yetGreekMoussakaLayers of fried aubergine and minced lamb or beef in a cinnamon-scented tomato sauce, under a thick crust of béchamel, baked.No one here has made it yetGreekPastitsioLong tubes of pasta layered with a spiced meat sauce under thick béchamel, baked and cut in tall squares.No one here has made it yetGreekBougatsaThin layers of filo wrapped round a warm semolina custard, baked, cut into squares and dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yet
PolishPierogi ruskieBoiled dumplings filled with potato, twaróg cheese and fried onion, finished with more onion in butter.1 version here
PolishGołąbkiSoftened cabbage leaves rolled around minced pork and rice, then baked or simmered in tomato sauce.No one here has made it yet
PolishPączkiRich, yeasted doughnuts filled with rose-petal jam or plum, glazed or sugared — the food of Fat Thursday.No one here has made it yetPolishRogal świętomarcińskiA large crescent of flaky yeast pastry filled with white poppy seed, almonds, nuts and dried fruit, glazed and scattered with nuts.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKarjalanpiirakkaSmall open pies of thin, crimped rye crust filled with rice porridge, baked hot and eaten warm with egg butter.No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic ryeKanelbullarSoft, cardamom-scented yeasted buns rolled around butter, sugar and cinnamon, and topped with pearl sugar.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKöttbullarSmall meatballs of beef and pork with onion and milk-soaked breadcrumbs, browned in butter and served with cream sauce, lingonberries and potatoes.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeLohikeittoA creamy Finnish soup of salmon, potatoes and leek in a light stock, with plenty of dill and whole allspice.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunCrawfish étoufféeCrawfish tails smothered in butter, the holy trinity and a little stock, into a thick, rich sauce over rice.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunBeignetsSquares of yeasted dough fried until puffed and hollow, buried under icing sugar, eaten hot with café au lait.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunPralinesFlat, fudgy discs of brown sugar, cream and butter set round pecans — soft, sugary and grainy at once.No one here has made it yetJamaicanJamaican beef pattyA half-moon of flaky, turmeric-yellow pastry filled with spiced, peppery minced beef.No one here has made it yetBrazilianCoxinhaA teardrop-shaped croquette of shredded chicken wrapped in a dough made with its own stock, breaded and fried.No one here has made it yetBrazilianBrigadeiroCondensed milk, cocoa and butter cooked into a soft fudge, rolled into balls and coated in chocolate sprinkles.No one here has made it yetBrazilianFarofaCassava flour toasted in butter or bacon fat with onion and garlic until golden and sandy, for scattering over beans and meat.No one here has made it yet
VietnameseBánh mìA light, crackling-crusted baguette filled with pâté, cold cuts or grilled meat, pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, coriander and chilli.No one here has made it yetMalaysianKaya toastToast spread with kaya — a jam of coconut milk, eggs, sugar and pandan — and slabs of cold butter, with soft-boiled eggs and coffee.No one here has made it yetFilipinoSisigPig's face and ears boiled, grilled and chopped fine with onion, chilli and calamansi, served on a sizzling iron plate.No one here has made it yetCantoneseEgg tartA small tart of short or flaky pastry filled with a smooth, just-set egg custard, eaten warm.No one here has made it yetCantonesePineapple bunA soft, sweet bread roll under a crackled, sugary crust — named for how the top looks, with no pineapple in it.No one here has made it yetJapaneseMiso ramenThick, wavy noodles in a rich broth seasoned with miso, under stir-fried pork, bean sprouts and cabbage — and in Hokkaido, often sweetcorn and a pat of butter.No one here has made it yetPunjabiButter chickenTandoori chicken simmered in a mild, silky sauce of tomato, butter and cream, scented with dried fenugreek.No one here has made it yetPunjabiDal makhaniWhole black lentils and kidney beans, simmered for hours with butter, tomato and cream until thick and velvety.No one here has made it yetPunjabiAloo parathaWholewheat flatbread stuffed with spiced potato, rolled thin and cooked on a tawa with ghee, eaten with white butter, yoghurt and pickle.No one here has made it yetPunjabiAmritsari kulchaA leavened flatbread stuffed with spiced potato, pressed with coriander seed, slapped onto the wall of a tandoor and served dripping with butter beside chole.No one here has made it yetGujaratiDabeliA soft bread roll split and stuffed with a sweet, hot potato filling, tamarind-date chutney, masala peanuts, pomegranate and sev, then toasted in butter.No one here has made it yetPersianTahdigThe golden crust of rice fried at the bottom of the pot and turned out whole — the part everyone reaches for first.No one here has made it yetPersianJoojeh kababPieces of chicken marinated in saffron, lemon and onion, grilled over charcoal and eaten with rice and a charred tomato.No one here has made it yetPersianKabab koobidehMinced lamb and grated onion pressed by hand onto wide, flat skewers and grilled over coals — served on saffron rice with butter and sumac.No one here has made it yetPersianZereshk poloSaffron rice scattered with barberries fried in butter and a little sugar — jewel-red and sharp — usually served with chicken.No one here has made it yetTurkishBaklavaMany sheets of paper-thin pastry layered with chopped pistachios or walnuts, baked in butter and soaked in syrup.No one here has made it yetTurkishİskender kebabThin slices of döner over cubes of pide, with tomato sauce, sizzling browned butter poured over at the table and thick yoghurt alongside.No one here has made it yetTurkishMenemenEggs stirred soft into green peppers and tomatoes stewed in butter or olive oil, eaten from the pan.No one here has made it yetTurkishMantıTiny meat-filled dumplings, boiled and served under garlicky yoghurt, with butter sizzled with red pepper poured over.No one here has made it yetTurkishPideBoat-shaped flatbread baked in a wood oven with cheese, minced meat or egg in the middle, brushed with butter as it comes out.No one here has made it yetTurkishÇılbırPoached eggs on garlicky yoghurt, with butter foamed with red pepper poured over the top.No one here has made it yetTurkishMercimek çorbasıRed lentils cooked with onion, carrot and a little potato, blended smooth, with red pepper butter and a wedge of lemon.No one here has made it yetGeorgianKhachapuriBread filled with salty, melting cheese — the everyday food of Georgia, in a different shape in every region.No one here has made it yetGeorgianKubdariA round, closed bread from Svaneti filled with hand-chopped beef or pork, onion and Svan salt, baked until the juices soak into the crust.No one here has made it yetMoroccanPastillaA round pie of paper-thin warqa pastry filled with spiced pigeon or chicken, eggs and sugared almonds, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yetMoroccanMsemenSquare, flaky pan-fried flatbreads, folded over oil, butter and semolina, eaten with honey and butter and mint tea.No one here has made it yetCape MalayBobotieSpiced minced meat with dried fruit and soaked bread, baked under a thin savoury egg custard, with bay leaves on top.No one here has made it yetCape MalayKoesistersSoft, spiced, doughnut-like dumplings, fried, dipped in syrup and rolled in coconut — for Sunday morning.No one here has made it yetBasqueGâteau basqueA short, buttery almond pastry baked around a filling of pastry cream or black cherry jam, the top glazed and scored.No one here has made it yetAsturianArroz con lecheShort-grain rice cooked slowly in plenty of milk with lemon peel and cinnamon until creamy, then topped with sugar burnt to a crust.No one here has made it yetProvençalNavettesHard, boat-shaped biscuits scented with orange-flower water, dunked in coffee.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisQuenelles de brochetLight dumplings of pike and a flour-and-egg panade, poached and then baked until they puff, usually in a crayfish sauce Nantua.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisTablier de sapeurSquares of ox tripe marinated in white wine and mustard, breadcrumbed and fried, served with a sauce gribiche.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisPoulet de Bresse à la crèmeA Bresse chicken browned gently in butter, then simmered and finished in thick cream, often with mushrooms.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisGratin dauphinoisThinly sliced potatoes baked slowly in milk and cream with garlic, until soft underneath and golden on top.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisTarte aux pralinesA pastry case filled with crushed pink sugared almonds melted into cream, which sets into a glossy, vivid pink filling.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisBugnesStrips of enriched dough fried until puffed and crisp, dusted heavily with icing sugar, made for Carnival.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisRavioles du DauphinéTiny squares of pasta filled with cheese, fromage blanc and parsley, poached in stock for a minute or baked in cream.No one here has made it yetAlsatianKougelhopfA tall, fluted ring of buttery yeasted dough with raisins soaked in kirsch, an almond set in each fold, dusted with icing sugar.No one here has made it yetAlsatianSpaetzleSoft little egg noodles made from a thick batter pushed through a board or press into boiling water, then tossed in butter.No one here has made it yetAlsatianBretzelA knotted bread dipped in a lye bath before baking, so it comes out deep brown and shiny, scattered with coarse salt.No one here has made it yetAlsatianBredeleSmall Christmas biscuits baked by the tinful — butter shapes, anise, cinnamon stars, spiced and almond ones — through Advent.No one here has made it yetAlsatianFleischschnackaFresh pasta spread with minced cooked beef, onion and herbs, rolled up, sliced into spirals like snails, and browned before simmering in stock.No one here has made it yetNormanMoules à la normandeMussels steamed open in cider with shallots and butter, the juices finished with crème fraîche.No one here has made it yetNormanSole normandeSole poached in wine or cider and fish stock, garnished with mussels, prawns and mushrooms, in a sauce of the reduced liquor with cream and egg yolks.No one here has made it yetNormanTarte normandeApples in a pastry case, covered in a custard of eggs, cream and sugar, often laced with Calvados, baked until just set.No one here has made it yetNormanPoulet vallée d'AugeChicken browned in butter, flamed with Calvados, simmered in cider and finished with cream and mushrooms, sometimes with apples.No one here has made it yetNormanCanard à la rouennaiseDuck roasted rare, carved at the table, with a sauce made from its carcass crushed in a press and thickened with its own blood and liver.No one here has made it yetNormanOmelette de la Mère PoulardEggs beaten long and hard, then cooked over a wood fire in a long-handled pan with plenty of butter, until tall and airy, like a soufflé.No one here has made it yetNormanMarmite dieppoiseChannel fish and shellfish — sole, scallops, mussels, prawns — cooked in a broth of leeks and white wine or cider, finished with cream.No one here has made it yetBurgundianBœuf bourguignonBeef braised slowly in red Burgundy with bacon, small onions and mushrooms until it falls apart.No one here has made it yetBurgundianCoq au vinA cockerel or chicken braised in red wine with bacon, mushrooms and small onions, the sauce thickened with its own juices.No one here has made it yetBurgundianŒufs en meuretteEggs poached in red wine and served in its sauce, reduced with shallots and bacon, on fried bread.No one here has made it yetBurgundianEscargots de BourgogneSnails cooked, put back in their shells and stuffed with garlic and parsley butter, then baked until it sizzles.No one here has made it yetBurgundianGougèresChoux pastry beaten with grated cheese and baked into light, hollow puffs, eaten warm with a glass of wine.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestPastis gasconApples soaked in Armagnac under layers of pastry stretched by hand until you can see through it, the top sheets ruffled and crisp.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestCaneléA small fluted cake with a thick, dark caramelised crust around a soft custard middle, scented with rum and vanilla.No one here has made it yetBretonHomard à l'armoricaineLobster cut up live, seared in its shell, flamed with cognac and simmered in white wine, tomato and shallots with a touch of cayenne.No one here has made it yetItalianAranciniBalls or cones of cooked rice around a filling of ragù or ham and cheese, breadcrumbed and fried until crisp.No one here has made it yetGreekMoussakaLayers of fried aubergine and minced lamb or beef in a cinnamon-scented tomato sauce, under a thick crust of béchamel, baked.No one here has made it yetGreekPastitsioLong tubes of pasta layered with a spiced meat sauce under thick béchamel, baked and cut in tall squares.No one here has made it yetGreekBougatsaThin layers of filo wrapped round a warm semolina custard, baked, cut into squares and dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yetPolishPierogi ruskieBoiled dumplings filled with potato, twaróg cheese and fried onion, finished with more onion in butter.1 version herePolishGołąbkiSoftened cabbage leaves rolled around minced pork and rice, then baked or simmered in tomato sauce.No one here has made it yetPolishPączkiRich, yeasted doughnuts filled with rose-petal jam or plum, glazed or sugared — the food of Fat Thursday.No one here has made it yetPolishRogal świętomarcińskiA large crescent of flaky yeast pastry filled with white poppy seed, almonds, nuts and dried fruit, glazed and scattered with nuts.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKarjalanpiirakkaSmall open pies of thin, crimped rye crust filled with rice porridge, baked hot and eaten warm with egg butter.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKanelbullarSoft, cardamom-scented yeasted buns rolled around butter, sugar and cinnamon, and topped with pearl sugar.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKöttbullarSmall meatballs of beef and pork with onion and milk-soaked breadcrumbs, browned in butter and served with cream sauce, lingonberries and potatoes.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeLohikeittoA creamy Finnish soup of salmon, potatoes and leek in a light stock, with plenty of dill and whole allspice.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunCrawfish étoufféeCrawfish tails smothered in butter, the holy trinity and a little stock, into a thick, rich sauce over rice.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunBeignetsSquares of yeasted dough fried until puffed and hollow, buried under icing sugar, eaten hot with café au lait.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunPralinesFlat, fudgy discs of brown sugar, cream and butter set round pecans — soft, sugary and grainy at once.No one here has made it yetJamaicanJamaican beef pattyA half-moon of flaky, turmeric-yellow pastry filled with spiced, peppery minced beef.No one here has made it yetBrazilianCoxinhaA teardrop-shaped croquette of shredded chicken wrapped in a dough made with its own stock, breaded and fried.No one here has made it yetBrazilianBrigadeiroCondensed milk, cocoa and butter cooked into a soft fudge, rolled into balls and coated in chocolate sprinkles.No one here has made it yetBrazilianFarofaCassava flour toasted in butter or bacon fat with onion and garlic until golden and sandy, for scattering over beans and meat.No one here has made it yetKinds
- Unsalted
- The baseline: you add salt yourself.
- Salted
- Around 1.5–2% salt.
- Cultured
- Made from soured cream — tangier, more aromatic.
- Clarified / ghee
- Milk solids removed, so it takes high heat.
Goes with
Cooked with, here
flaky saltsherry vinegar–8 hours ahead marinate the fishabout 30 g well-aged comtébutter plus a little neutral oilcaperchivechopped parsley
How much, here
3.5–8% of the dish by weight, typically 4% — a place to start.
Knowing it
- Where to buy
- Anywhere. Cultured butter from dairies, delis and good cheese shops.
- A little history
- Among the oldest dairy foods there is. Before refrigeration, most butter was cultured by default.
Kitchens that keep it in
Turkey — Anatolia and Thrace, between the Black Sea and the MediterraneanTurkishKebabs off the charcoal, yoghurt with nearly everything, vegetables slow-cooked in olive oil and pastry rolled thin as paper — the cooking of Anatolia and the Ottoman table.10 classicsAsturias — the green mountains and coast of northern Spain, on the Bay of BiscayAsturianA kitchen of rain and mountains: big white beans stewed with smoked sausage, milk and blue cheese, fish from the Cantabrian Sea, and cider poured from a height.7 classicsLyon and its hinterland — the Rhône and Saône valleys, from Bresse to the DauphinéLyonnaisA city's cooking, rich and unfussy: pork and offal in the bouchons, cream and butter from Bresse, fish from the rivers, and the wines of the Beaujolais to wash it down.9 classicsNormandy — north-western France, along the Channel from the Seine to Mont-Saint-MichelNormanButter, cream, apples and the sea: orchards turned into cider and Calvados, pastures into Camembert and Livarot, and shellfish and sole from the Channel.9 classicsBurgundy — east-central France, from Chablis down to the MâconnaisBurgundianRed wine in the pot as much as the glass, with Charolais beef, bacon, mushrooms, snails, mustard and the cheeses and hams of the hills.7 classicsPolandPolishCold-climate cooking of grains, potatoes, dairy and ferments — sour things, soured things, and dumplings for every occasion.10 classics · 1 cooked hereScandinavia, Finland, the Baltics and northern GermanyNordic and Baltic ryeWhere rye grows better than wheat, bread is dark, dense, sour and made to last — the base of the open sandwich and the everyday table.9 classics · 1 cooked here