The market · Dairy and eggs
Eggs
The great binder, setter and emulsifier.
rich
What to do with it
JavaneseGudegYoung jackfruit simmered for hours in coconut milk and palm sugar until brown, sweet and tender, served with rice, chicken, egg and a hot stew of cow's skin.No one here has made it yetJavaneseNasi gorengYesterday's rice fried with shallot, garlic, chilli and shrimp paste, darkened with kecap manis and topped with a fried egg.No one here has made it yetJavaneseSoto ayamA clear chicken broth, yellow with turmeric, poured over shredded chicken, glass noodles, bean sprouts and egg, with lime, sambal and fried shallots.No one here has made it yetJavaneseGado-gadoBlanched vegetables, potato, tofu, tempeh, egg and lontong under a thick peanut sauce, with prawn crackers on top.No one here has made it yetJavaneseLumpia SemarangSpring rolls filled with bamboo shoot, egg and prawn, fried or left soft, with a thick sweet garlic sauce and whole spring onion.No one here has made it yetSundaneseBatagorFried fish dumplings and fish-stuffed tofu, cut up under a peanut sauce with kecap manis, chilli and lime.No one here has made it yetSundaneseSiomay BandungSteamed fish dumplings with cabbage, potato, bitter gourd, tofu and egg, all steamed together and drowned in peanut sauce.No one here has made it yetMinahasanKlappertaartA soft baked custard of young coconut, milk and eggs, with raisins and cinnamon, often topped with almonds or meringue.No one here has made it yetMinahasanPanadaA soft yeasted dough folded around spiced, shredded skipjack and fried golden.No one here has made it yet
ThaiPad kaphraoMinced pork or chicken stir-fried hard with garlic, bird's eye chilli and holy basil, over rice with a crisp fried egg.No one here has made it yet
ThaiPad thaiThin rice noodles stir-fried with tamarind, fish sauce and palm sugar, egg, tofu and prawns, with beansprouts, chives and crushed peanuts.No one here has made it yet
VietnameseThịt khoPork belly and hard-boiled eggs braised in fish sauce, dark caramel and coconut water until glossy and brown.No one here has made it yetVietnameseCơm tấmBroken rice with a grilled lemongrass pork chop, shredded pork skin, a slice of steamed egg and pork loaf, pickles and nước chấm.No one here has made it yetMalaysianNasi lemakRice cooked in coconut milk and pandan, with sambal, crisp anchovies, peanuts, cucumber and egg.No one here has made it yetMalaysianChar kway teowFlat rice noodles fried hard in lard over fierce heat with prawns, cockles, Chinese sausage, egg, bean sprouts and chives.No one here has made it yetMalaysianRoti canaiA flaky, chewy flatbread of dough spun paper-thin, folded and griddled with ghee, torn and dipped in dal and curry.No one here has made it yetMalaysianKaya toastToast spread with kaya — a jam of coconut milk, eggs, sugar and pandan — and slabs of cold butter, with soft-boiled eggs and coffee.No one here has made it yetFilipinoLumpiaSpring rolls — most often thin, tight cigars of seasoned pork, fried crisp and dipped in sweet chilli sauce.No one here has made it yet
CantoneseEgg tartA small tart of short or flaky pastry filled with a smooth, just-set egg custard, eaten warm.No one here has made it yetCantonesePineapple bunA soft, sweet bread roll under a crackled, sugary crust — named for how the top looks, with no pineapple in it.No one here has made it yetTeochewTeochew porridgeRice cooked in plenty of water only until the grains are soft but whole, eaten with a spread of small salty dishes.No one here has made it yetTeochewFried carrot cakeSteamed white radish and rice-flour cake, cut into cubes and fried with egg, garlic and preserved radish — 'white', or 'black' with sweet soy.No one here has made it yetTeochewKway chapWide, flat rice sheets in a dark soy broth, with a plate of braised pork, offal, tofu and eggs from the lou pot.No one here has made it yetHuaiyangLion's head meatballsLarge, soft pork meatballs, gently stewed in stock over Chinese leaf until they're tender enough to eat with a spoon.No one here has made it yetHuaiyangYangzhou fried riceDay-old rice fried with egg, prawns, ham, peas and spring onion — each grain separate and coated.No one here has made it yetFujianOyster omeletteSmall oysters fried in a sweet potato starch batter with eggs — crisp in places, soft and gooey in others.No one here has made it yetFujianPopiahA soft, paper-thin wheat crêpe rolled round a filling of braised vegetables, egg, prawn and crushed peanuts.No one here has made it yetAnhuiHuizhou one-potA deep iron pot layered with bamboo shoots, pork, fried tofu, egg dumplings and greens, simmered slowly and brought to the table whole.No one here has made it yetUyghur and XinjiangSamsaSquare parcels of thin dough filled with lamb, fat and onion, baked against the wall of the tonur until blistered and crisp.No one here has made it yetSichuanWater-boiled beefTender slices of beef poached in a chilli-bean broth over a bed of greens, then heaped with dried chilli and Sichuan pepper and doused in smoking oil.No one here has made it yet
JapaneseChawanmushiA savoury egg custard, steamed in a teacup with dashi, and set so softly it barely holds.2 versions here
JapaneseOyakodonChicken and onion simmered in sweet dashi and soy, bound with barely set egg and slid over a bowl of rice.No one here has made it yetJapaneseTonkatsuA thick pork cutlet in flour, egg and coarse panko, deep-fried until crisp, sliced, and served with shredded cabbage and a thick, fruity sauce.No one here has made it yetJapaneseOkonomiyakiA thick savoury pancake of batter and shredded cabbage with pork belly, cooked on a griddle and finished with sweet-sour sauce, mayonnaise, aonori and bonito flakes.No one here has made it yetJapaneseTonkotsu ramenThin, straight noodles in a cloudy, creamy pork-bone broth, with slices of chāshū, red pickled ginger and spring onion.No one here has made it yetJapaneseGōyā chanpurūBitter melon stir-fried with firm tofu, pork and egg — Okinawa's everyday dish, bitter, savoury and soft at once.No one here has made it yetKoreanKongnamul gukbapRice in a clear, hot soup of soybean sprouts and anchovy stock, with an egg — Jeonju's morning bowl, and its cure for the night before.No one here has made it yetBengaliKolkata kathi rollA flaky paratha fried with a beaten egg on one side, then rolled around skewered kebab, raw onion, green chilli and lime — Kolkata's street food.No one here has made it yetSri LankanKottu rotiFlatbread chopped on a hot griddle with two metal blades, tossed with vegetables, egg, meat and curry gravy.No one here has made it yetSri LankanHoppersBowl-shaped pancakes of fermented rice flour and coconut milk, crisp and lacy at the edge and soft at the base, often with an egg cooked inside.No one here has made it yetSri LankanLampraisRice cooked in stock, with a mixed-meat curry, frikkadels, prawn blachan, aubergine pickle and egg, wrapped in banana leaf and baked.No one here has made it yetSri LankanWatalappanA steamed custard of kithul jaggery, coconut milk and eggs, spiced with cardamom and nutmeg and topped with cashews.No one here has made it yetPersianKuku sabziA thick, deep-green frittata that's mostly herbs, bound with just enough egg, often with barberries and walnuts.No one here has made it yetPersianMirza ghasemiAubergines charred whole over a flame, mashed with garlic, tomato and egg — smoky, rich and eaten with bread.No one here has made it yetTurkishMenemenEggs stirred soft into green peppers and tomatoes stewed in butter or olive oil, eaten from the pan.No one here has made it yetTurkishMantıTiny meat-filled dumplings, boiled and served under garlicky yoghurt, with butter sizzled with red pepper poured over.No one here has made it yetTurkishÇılbırPoached eggs on garlicky yoghurt, with butter foamed with red pepper poured over the top.No one here has made it yet
GeorgianKhachapuriBread filled with salty, melting cheese — the everyday food of Georgia, in a different shape in every region.No one here has made it yetMoroccanPastillaA round pie of paper-thin warqa pastry filled with spiced pigeon or chicken, eggs and sugared almonds, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yetMoroccanKalinteA baked custard of chickpea flour, water, oil and egg, cut in squares from the tray and eaten hot with cumin and salt.No one here has made it yet
EthiopianDoro watChicken stewed slowly in onions, berbere and niter kibbeh until dark and thick, with whole hard-boiled eggs.No one here has made it yetNigerianMoi moiA steamed pudding of peeled black-eyed beans blended with red pepper, onion and oil, set soft in leaves or tins.No one here has made it yetCape MalayBobotieSpiced minced meat with dried fruit and soaked bread, baked under a thin savoury egg custard, with bay leaves on top.No one here has made it yetCape MalayKoesistersSoft, spiced, doughnut-like dumplings, fried, dipped in syrup and rolled in coconut — for Sunday morning.No one here has made it yet
BasqueTortilla de bacalaoA soft omelette of salt cod, onion and green pepper — the first course at the Basque cider houses.No one here has made it yetBasqueGâteau basqueA short, buttery almond pastry baked around a filling of pastry cream or black cherry jam, the top glazed and scored.No one here has made it yetAndalusianSalmorejoTomatoes blended with bread, garlic and olive oil into a thick, cold cream, topped with chopped egg and jamón.No one here has made it yetAndalusianFlamenquínThin slices of pork loin rolled around jamón, breadcrumbed and fried into a long golden roll.No one here has made it yetGalicianEmpanada gallegaA large, flat pie of bread-like dough filled with onions and peppers stewed in olive oil and tuna, pork or shellfish, baked and cut into squares.No one here has made it yetGalicianTarta de SantiagoA flat, moist almond cake with little or no flour, dusted with icing sugar around a stencil of the cross of Saint James.No one here has made it yetCastilian and MadridTortilla de patatasA thick omelette of potatoes and, usually, onion, slowly poached in olive oil, then set with eggs and turned in the pan.No one here has made it yetCastilian and MadridSopa castellanaGarlic soup: stale bread and sliced garlic fried in olive oil with pimentón, simmered in broth, with an egg poached in each bowl.No one here has made it yetCastilian and MadridPisto manchegoOnions, peppers, courgettes and tomatoes cooked down slowly in olive oil into a soft, sweet stew, often with a fried egg on top.No one here has made it yetAsturianCachopoTwo large, thin veal fillets sandwiched around ham and cheese, breadcrumbed and fried, and served big enough to share, with chips and peppers.No one here has made it yetAsturianPixín fritoMonkfish — pixín in Asturian — cut into chunks, marinated with garlic and lemon, then floured, dipped in egg and fried.No one here has made it yet
ProvençalNavettesHard, boat-shaped biscuits scented with orange-flower water, dunked in coffee.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisQuenelles de brochetLight dumplings of pike and a flour-and-egg panade, poached and then baked until they puff, usually in a crayfish sauce Nantua.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisSalade lyonnaiseBitter frisée tossed with hot bacon, croutons and a sharp mustard vinaigrette, topped with a soft poached egg.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisTablier de sapeurSquares of ox tripe marinated in white wine and mustard, breadcrumbed and fried, served with a sauce gribiche.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisTarte aux pralinesA pastry case filled with crushed pink sugared almonds melted into cream, which sets into a glossy, vivid pink filling.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisBugnesStrips of enriched dough fried until puffed and crisp, dusted heavily with icing sugar, made for Carnival.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisRavioles du DauphinéTiny squares of pasta filled with cheese, fromage blanc and parsley, poached in stock for a minute or baked in cream.No one here has made it yetAlsatianKougelhopfA tall, fluted ring of buttery yeasted dough with raisins soaked in kirsch, an almond set in each fold, dusted with icing sugar.No one here has made it yetAlsatianSpaetzleSoft little egg noodles made from a thick batter pushed through a board or press into boiling water, then tossed in butter.No one here has made it yetAlsatianBredeleSmall Christmas biscuits baked by the tinful — butter shapes, anise, cinnamon stars, spiced and almond ones — through Advent.No one here has made it yetAlsatianFleischschnackaFresh pasta spread with minced cooked beef, onion and herbs, rolled up, sliced into spirals like snails, and browned before simmering in stock.No one here has made it yetNormanTarte normandeApples in a pastry case, covered in a custard of eggs, cream and sugar, often laced with Calvados, baked until just set.No one here has made it yetNormanOmelette de la Mère PoulardEggs beaten long and hard, then cooked over a wood fire in a long-handled pan with plenty of butter, until tall and airy, like a soufflé.No one here has made it yetBurgundianŒufs en meuretteEggs poached in red wine and served in its sauce, reduced with shallots and bacon, on fried bread.No one here has made it yetBurgundianGougèresChoux pastry beaten with grated cheese and baked into light, hollow puffs, eaten warm with a glass of wine.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestPastis gasconApples soaked in Armagnac under layers of pastry stretched by hand until you can see through it, the top sheets ruffled and crisp.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestCaneléA small fluted cake with a thick, dark caramelised crust around a soft custard middle, scented with rum and vanilla.No one here has made it yetBretonGalette complèteA thin, lacy buckwheat pancake folded square around ham, grated cheese and an egg left runny in the middle.No one here has made it yetBretonCrêpes bretonnesThin wheat-flour pancakes, cooked on a billig and eaten with salted butter and sugar, jam or salted-butter caramel.No one here has made it yetBretonFar bretonA dense, custardy flan of eggs, milk and flour, baked firm, usually with prunes soaked in the batter.No one here has made it yet
ItalianCarbonaraPasta with crisp guanciale, bound off the heat in a sauce of egg yolk, pecorino and black pepper.No one here has made it yet
ItalianAranciniBalls or cones of cooked rice around a filling of ragù or ham and cheese, breadcrumbed and fried until crisp.No one here has made it yetItalianTortellini in brodoTiny rings of fresh egg pasta around a filling of pork, mortadella, prosciutto and parmesan, served in a clear meat broth.No one here has made it yetGreekSpanakopitaSpinach and feta with spring onion and dill, baked in crisp layers of filo — as one big pie or small triangles.No one here has made it yetGreekAvgolemonoChicken broth thickened with rice and a froth of egg and lemon, tempered in so it turns silky rather than scrambled.No one here has made it yetGreekPastitsioLong tubes of pasta layered with a spiced meat sauce under thick béchamel, baked and cut in tall squares.No one here has made it yetGreekBougatsaThin layers of filo wrapped round a warm semolina custard, baked, cut into squares and dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yetPolishŻurekA sour soup built on fermented rye flour, with white sausage, smoked meat, garlic, marjoram and a halved hard-boiled egg.No one here has made it yetPolishPlacki ziemniaczaneGrated raw potato and onion bound with egg and a little flour, fried in thin cakes until lacy and crisp.No one here has made it yetPolishKluski śląskieSoft, springy dumplings of mashed potato and potato starch, each pressed with a thumb to leave a dimple for the gravy.No one here has made it yetPolishRogal świętomarcińskiA large crescent of flaky yeast pastry filled with white poppy seed, almonds, nuts and dried fruit, glazed and scattered with nuts.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKarjalanpiirakkaSmall open pies of thin, crimped rye crust filled with rice porridge, baked hot and eaten warm with egg butter.No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic ryeKanelbullarSoft, cardamom-scented yeasted buns rolled around butter, sugar and cinnamon, and topped with pearl sugar.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKöttbullarSmall meatballs of beef and pork with onion and milk-soaked breadcrumbs, browned in butter and served with cream sauce, lingonberries and potatoes.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunPo'boyA long New Orleans loaf — crackly crust, feather-light inside — filled with fried prawns or oysters, or roast beef in gravy.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunBeignetsSquares of yeasted dough fried until puffed and hollow, buried under icing sugar, eaten hot with café au lait.No one here has made it yetPeruvianRocoto rellenoRocoto chillies, blanched to tame them, stuffed with spiced beef, peanuts and raisins, topped with cheese and baked.No one here has made it yetPeruvianJuaneRice seasoned with turmeric and cumin, packed round chicken, egg and olive in bijao leaves, tied and boiled.No one here has made it yetBrazilianPão de queijoSmall round cheese breads made with cassava starch — crisp outside, chewy and hollow within.No one here has made it yetBrazilianCoxinhaA teardrop-shaped croquette of shredded chicken wrapped in a dough made with its own stock, breaded and fried.No one here has made it yetBrazilianFarofaCassava flour toasted in butter or bacon fat with onion and garlic until golden and sandy, for scattering over beans and meat.No one here has made it yet
ThaiPad kaphraoMinced pork or chicken stir-fried hard with garlic, bird's eye chilli and holy basil, over rice with a crisp fried egg.No one here has made it yetThaiPad thaiThin rice noodles stir-fried with tamarind, fish sauce and palm sugar, egg, tofu and prawns, with beansprouts, chives and crushed peanuts.No one here has made it yetVietnameseThịt khoPork belly and hard-boiled eggs braised in fish sauce, dark caramel and coconut water until glossy and brown.No one here has made it yetVietnameseCơm tấmBroken rice with a grilled lemongrass pork chop, shredded pork skin, a slice of steamed egg and pork loaf, pickles and nước chấm.No one here has made it yetMalaysianNasi lemakRice cooked in coconut milk and pandan, with sambal, crisp anchovies, peanuts, cucumber and egg.No one here has made it yetMalaysianChar kway teowFlat rice noodles fried hard in lard over fierce heat with prawns, cockles, Chinese sausage, egg, bean sprouts and chives.No one here has made it yetMalaysianRoti canaiA flaky, chewy flatbread of dough spun paper-thin, folded and griddled with ghee, torn and dipped in dal and curry.No one here has made it yetMalaysianKaya toastToast spread with kaya — a jam of coconut milk, eggs, sugar and pandan — and slabs of cold butter, with soft-boiled eggs and coffee.No one here has made it yetFilipinoLumpiaSpring rolls — most often thin, tight cigars of seasoned pork, fried crisp and dipped in sweet chilli sauce.No one here has made it yetCantoneseEgg tartA small tart of short or flaky pastry filled with a smooth, just-set egg custard, eaten warm.No one here has made it yetCantonesePineapple bunA soft, sweet bread roll under a crackled, sugary crust — named for how the top looks, with no pineapple in it.No one here has made it yetTeochewTeochew porridgeRice cooked in plenty of water only until the grains are soft but whole, eaten with a spread of small salty dishes.No one here has made it yetTeochewFried carrot cakeSteamed white radish and rice-flour cake, cut into cubes and fried with egg, garlic and preserved radish — 'white', or 'black' with sweet soy.No one here has made it yetTeochewKway chapWide, flat rice sheets in a dark soy broth, with a plate of braised pork, offal, tofu and eggs from the lou pot.No one here has made it yetHuaiyangLion's head meatballsLarge, soft pork meatballs, gently stewed in stock over Chinese leaf until they're tender enough to eat with a spoon.No one here has made it yetHuaiyangYangzhou fried riceDay-old rice fried with egg, prawns, ham, peas and spring onion — each grain separate and coated.No one here has made it yetFujianOyster omeletteSmall oysters fried in a sweet potato starch batter with eggs — crisp in places, soft and gooey in others.No one here has made it yetFujianPopiahA soft, paper-thin wheat crêpe rolled round a filling of braised vegetables, egg, prawn and crushed peanuts.No one here has made it yetAnhuiHuizhou one-potA deep iron pot layered with bamboo shoots, pork, fried tofu, egg dumplings and greens, simmered slowly and brought to the table whole.No one here has made it yetUyghur and XinjiangSamsaSquare parcels of thin dough filled with lamb, fat and onion, baked against the wall of the tonur until blistered and crisp.No one here has made it yetSichuanWater-boiled beefTender slices of beef poached in a chilli-bean broth over a bed of greens, then heaped with dried chilli and Sichuan pepper and doused in smoking oil.No one here has made it yetJapaneseChawanmushiA savoury egg custard, steamed in a teacup with dashi, and set so softly it barely holds.2 versions hereJapaneseOyakodonChicken and onion simmered in sweet dashi and soy, bound with barely set egg and slid over a bowl of rice.No one here has made it yetJapaneseTonkatsuA thick pork cutlet in flour, egg and coarse panko, deep-fried until crisp, sliced, and served with shredded cabbage and a thick, fruity sauce.No one here has made it yetJapaneseOkonomiyakiA thick savoury pancake of batter and shredded cabbage with pork belly, cooked on a griddle and finished with sweet-sour sauce, mayonnaise, aonori and bonito flakes.No one here has made it yetJapaneseTonkotsu ramenThin, straight noodles in a cloudy, creamy pork-bone broth, with slices of chāshū, red pickled ginger and spring onion.No one here has made it yetJapaneseGōyā chanpurūBitter melon stir-fried with firm tofu, pork and egg — Okinawa's everyday dish, bitter, savoury and soft at once.No one here has made it yetKoreanKongnamul gukbapRice in a clear, hot soup of soybean sprouts and anchovy stock, with an egg — Jeonju's morning bowl, and its cure for the night before.No one here has made it yetBengaliKolkata kathi rollA flaky paratha fried with a beaten egg on one side, then rolled around skewered kebab, raw onion, green chilli and lime — Kolkata's street food.No one here has made it yetSri LankanKottu rotiFlatbread chopped on a hot griddle with two metal blades, tossed with vegetables, egg, meat and curry gravy.No one here has made it yetSri LankanHoppersBowl-shaped pancakes of fermented rice flour and coconut milk, crisp and lacy at the edge and soft at the base, often with an egg cooked inside.No one here has made it yetSri LankanLampraisRice cooked in stock, with a mixed-meat curry, frikkadels, prawn blachan, aubergine pickle and egg, wrapped in banana leaf and baked.No one here has made it yetSri LankanWatalappanA steamed custard of kithul jaggery, coconut milk and eggs, spiced with cardamom and nutmeg and topped with cashews.No one here has made it yetPersianKuku sabziA thick, deep-green frittata that's mostly herbs, bound with just enough egg, often with barberries and walnuts.No one here has made it yetPersianMirza ghasemiAubergines charred whole over a flame, mashed with garlic, tomato and egg — smoky, rich and eaten with bread.No one here has made it yetTurkishMenemenEggs stirred soft into green peppers and tomatoes stewed in butter or olive oil, eaten from the pan.No one here has made it yetTurkishMantıTiny meat-filled dumplings, boiled and served under garlicky yoghurt, with butter sizzled with red pepper poured over.No one here has made it yetTurkishÇılbırPoached eggs on garlicky yoghurt, with butter foamed with red pepper poured over the top.No one here has made it yetGeorgianKhachapuriBread filled with salty, melting cheese — the everyday food of Georgia, in a different shape in every region.No one here has made it yetMoroccanPastillaA round pie of paper-thin warqa pastry filled with spiced pigeon or chicken, eggs and sugared almonds, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yetMoroccanKalinteA baked custard of chickpea flour, water, oil and egg, cut in squares from the tray and eaten hot with cumin and salt.No one here has made it yetEthiopianDoro watChicken stewed slowly in onions, berbere and niter kibbeh until dark and thick, with whole hard-boiled eggs.No one here has made it yetNigerianMoi moiA steamed pudding of peeled black-eyed beans blended with red pepper, onion and oil, set soft in leaves or tins.No one here has made it yetCape MalayBobotieSpiced minced meat with dried fruit and soaked bread, baked under a thin savoury egg custard, with bay leaves on top.No one here has made it yetCape MalayKoesistersSoft, spiced, doughnut-like dumplings, fried, dipped in syrup and rolled in coconut — for Sunday morning.No one here has made it yetBasqueTortilla de bacalaoA soft omelette of salt cod, onion and green pepper — the first course at the Basque cider houses.No one here has made it yetBasqueGâteau basqueA short, buttery almond pastry baked around a filling of pastry cream or black cherry jam, the top glazed and scored.No one here has made it yetAndalusianSalmorejoTomatoes blended with bread, garlic and olive oil into a thick, cold cream, topped with chopped egg and jamón.No one here has made it yetAndalusianFlamenquínThin slices of pork loin rolled around jamón, breadcrumbed and fried into a long golden roll.No one here has made it yetGalicianEmpanada gallegaA large, flat pie of bread-like dough filled with onions and peppers stewed in olive oil and tuna, pork or shellfish, baked and cut into squares.No one here has made it yetGalicianTarta de SantiagoA flat, moist almond cake with little or no flour, dusted with icing sugar around a stencil of the cross of Saint James.No one here has made it yetCastilian and MadridTortilla de patatasA thick omelette of potatoes and, usually, onion, slowly poached in olive oil, then set with eggs and turned in the pan.No one here has made it yetCastilian and MadridSopa castellanaGarlic soup: stale bread and sliced garlic fried in olive oil with pimentón, simmered in broth, with an egg poached in each bowl.No one here has made it yetCastilian and MadridPisto manchegoOnions, peppers, courgettes and tomatoes cooked down slowly in olive oil into a soft, sweet stew, often with a fried egg on top.No one here has made it yetAsturianCachopoTwo large, thin veal fillets sandwiched around ham and cheese, breadcrumbed and fried, and served big enough to share, with chips and peppers.No one here has made it yetAsturianPixín fritoMonkfish — pixín in Asturian — cut into chunks, marinated with garlic and lemon, then floured, dipped in egg and fried.No one here has made it yetProvençalNavettesHard, boat-shaped biscuits scented with orange-flower water, dunked in coffee.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisQuenelles de brochetLight dumplings of pike and a flour-and-egg panade, poached and then baked until they puff, usually in a crayfish sauce Nantua.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisSalade lyonnaiseBitter frisée tossed with hot bacon, croutons and a sharp mustard vinaigrette, topped with a soft poached egg.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisTablier de sapeurSquares of ox tripe marinated in white wine and mustard, breadcrumbed and fried, served with a sauce gribiche.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisTarte aux pralinesA pastry case filled with crushed pink sugared almonds melted into cream, which sets into a glossy, vivid pink filling.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisBugnesStrips of enriched dough fried until puffed and crisp, dusted heavily with icing sugar, made for Carnival.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisRavioles du DauphinéTiny squares of pasta filled with cheese, fromage blanc and parsley, poached in stock for a minute or baked in cream.No one here has made it yetAlsatianKougelhopfA tall, fluted ring of buttery yeasted dough with raisins soaked in kirsch, an almond set in each fold, dusted with icing sugar.No one here has made it yetAlsatianSpaetzleSoft little egg noodles made from a thick batter pushed through a board or press into boiling water, then tossed in butter.No one here has made it yetAlsatianBredeleSmall Christmas biscuits baked by the tinful — butter shapes, anise, cinnamon stars, spiced and almond ones — through Advent.No one here has made it yetAlsatianFleischschnackaFresh pasta spread with minced cooked beef, onion and herbs, rolled up, sliced into spirals like snails, and browned before simmering in stock.No one here has made it yetNormanTarte normandeApples in a pastry case, covered in a custard of eggs, cream and sugar, often laced with Calvados, baked until just set.No one here has made it yetNormanOmelette de la Mère PoulardEggs beaten long and hard, then cooked over a wood fire in a long-handled pan with plenty of butter, until tall and airy, like a soufflé.No one here has made it yetBurgundianŒufs en meuretteEggs poached in red wine and served in its sauce, reduced with shallots and bacon, on fried bread.No one here has made it yetBurgundianGougèresChoux pastry beaten with grated cheese and baked into light, hollow puffs, eaten warm with a glass of wine.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestPastis gasconApples soaked in Armagnac under layers of pastry stretched by hand until you can see through it, the top sheets ruffled and crisp.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestCaneléA small fluted cake with a thick, dark caramelised crust around a soft custard middle, scented with rum and vanilla.No one here has made it yetBretonGalette complèteA thin, lacy buckwheat pancake folded square around ham, grated cheese and an egg left runny in the middle.No one here has made it yetBretonCrêpes bretonnesThin wheat-flour pancakes, cooked on a billig and eaten with salted butter and sugar, jam or salted-butter caramel.No one here has made it yetBretonFar bretonA dense, custardy flan of eggs, milk and flour, baked firm, usually with prunes soaked in the batter.No one here has made it yetItalianCarbonaraPasta with crisp guanciale, bound off the heat in a sauce of egg yolk, pecorino and black pepper.No one here has made it yetItalianAranciniBalls or cones of cooked rice around a filling of ragù or ham and cheese, breadcrumbed and fried until crisp.No one here has made it yetItalianTortellini in brodoTiny rings of fresh egg pasta around a filling of pork, mortadella, prosciutto and parmesan, served in a clear meat broth.No one here has made it yetGreekSpanakopitaSpinach and feta with spring onion and dill, baked in crisp layers of filo — as one big pie or small triangles.No one here has made it yetGreekAvgolemonoChicken broth thickened with rice and a froth of egg and lemon, tempered in so it turns silky rather than scrambled.No one here has made it yetGreekPastitsioLong tubes of pasta layered with a spiced meat sauce under thick béchamel, baked and cut in tall squares.No one here has made it yetGreekBougatsaThin layers of filo wrapped round a warm semolina custard, baked, cut into squares and dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yetPolishŻurekA sour soup built on fermented rye flour, with white sausage, smoked meat, garlic, marjoram and a halved hard-boiled egg.No one here has made it yetPolishPlacki ziemniaczaneGrated raw potato and onion bound with egg and a little flour, fried in thin cakes until lacy and crisp.No one here has made it yetPolishKluski śląskieSoft, springy dumplings of mashed potato and potato starch, each pressed with a thumb to leave a dimple for the gravy.No one here has made it yetPolishRogal świętomarcińskiA large crescent of flaky yeast pastry filled with white poppy seed, almonds, nuts and dried fruit, glazed and scattered with nuts.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKarjalanpiirakkaSmall open pies of thin, crimped rye crust filled with rice porridge, baked hot and eaten warm with egg butter.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKanelbullarSoft, cardamom-scented yeasted buns rolled around butter, sugar and cinnamon, and topped with pearl sugar.No one here has made it yetNordic and Baltic ryeKöttbullarSmall meatballs of beef and pork with onion and milk-soaked breadcrumbs, browned in butter and served with cream sauce, lingonberries and potatoes.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunPo'boyA long New Orleans loaf — crackly crust, feather-light inside — filled with fried prawns or oysters, or roast beef in gravy.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunBeignetsSquares of yeasted dough fried until puffed and hollow, buried under icing sugar, eaten hot with café au lait.No one here has made it yetPeruvianRocoto rellenoRocoto chillies, blanched to tame them, stuffed with spiced beef, peanuts and raisins, topped with cheese and baked.No one here has made it yetPeruvianJuaneRice seasoned with turmeric and cumin, packed round chicken, egg and olive in bijao leaves, tied and boiled.No one here has made it yetBrazilianPão de queijoSmall round cheese breads made with cassava starch — crisp outside, chewy and hollow within.No one here has made it yetBrazilianCoxinhaA teardrop-shaped croquette of shredded chicken wrapped in a dough made with its own stock, breaded and fried.No one here has made it yetBrazilianFarofaCassava flour toasted in butter or bacon fat with onion and garlic until golden and sandy, for scattering over beans and meat.No one here has made it yetKinds
- Hen
- Sizes vary by 20g or more — weigh them when ratios matter.
- Duck
- Bigger, richer yolk, firmer set.
- Quail
- Tiny, delicate.
Goes with
Cooked with, here
How much, here
16–22% of the dish by weight, typically 21% — a place to start.
Knowing it
- Where to buy
- As fresh as you can find.
- Worth knowing
- In a custard, the ratio of egg to liquid by weight matters far more than the number of eggs.
Kitchens that keep it in
Castile and Madrid — the high central plateau of Spain, the mesetaCastilian and MadridThe kitchen of the high, dry meseta: suckling pig and lamb roasted in wood-fired ovens, chickpeas and garlic soups for hard winters, and a capital that eats out, late and standing up.10 classicsBrittany — the peninsula of north-western France, between the Channel and the Bay of BiscayBretonBuckwheat and salted butter, the catch of a long, rocky coast, and pancakes cooked thin on a hot iron plate.7 classics
More dairy and eggs
Dairy and eggsAged goudabutterscotch, nutty, crystallinesavouryNot cooked here yetDairy and eggsBurratamilky, creamy, freshNot cooked here yetDairy and eggsButtercreamy, nutty when brownedrichIn Pierogi ruskie, Comté French Toast Bites and 1 more · 79 classicsDairy and eggsComténutty, brothy, fruitysavouryrich2 classics