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The market
· Fish and seafood
Prawns
Sweet shellfish, at their best barely cooked.
sweet · briny
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Javanese
Lumpia Semarang
Spring rolls filled with bamboo shoot, egg and prawn, fried or left soft, with a thick sweet garlic sauce and whole spring onion.
No one here has made it yet
Thai
Tom yum
A hot and sour broth scented with lemongrass, galangal and lime leaf, sharpened with lime and fish sauce — usually with prawns.
No one here has made it yet
Thai
Pad thai
Thin rice noodles stir-fried with tamarind, fish sauce and palm sugar, egg, tofu and prawns, with beansprouts, chives and crushed peanuts.
No one here has made it yet
Vietnamese
Gỏi cuốn
Rice paper wrapped round prawns, pork, rice noodles, lettuce and herbs, eaten fresh with a dipping sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Vietnamese
Bánh xèo
A thin, crisp pancake of rice flour, coconut milk and turmeric, folded round pork, prawns and bean sprouts, wrapped in leaves and herbs and dipped in nước chấm.
No one here has made it yet
Malaysian
Curry laksa
Noodles in a rich, spiced coconut curry broth, with tofu puffs, prawns, chicken, bean sprouts and a spoonful of sambal.
No one here has made it yet
Malaysian
Char kway teow
Flat rice noodles fried hard in lard over fierce heat with prawns, cockles, Chinese sausage, egg, bean sprouts and chives.
No one here has made it yet
Filipino
Pancit canton
Thick egg noodles stir-fried with pork, chicken, prawns and vegetables in soy and stock, with calamansi to squeeze over.
No one here has made it yet
Cantonese
Wonton noodle soup
Thin, springy egg noodles and prawn wontons in a clear broth, finished with a few chives.
No one here has made it yet
Cantonese
Siu mai
Open-topped dumplings of pork and prawn in a thin yellow wrapper, steamed, and often dotted on top with fish roe or a little carrot.
No one here has made it yet
Huaiyang
Yangzhou fried rice
Day-old rice fried with egg, prawns, ham, peas and spring onion — each grain separate and coated.
No one here has made it yet
Huaiyang
Squirrel-shaped mandarin fish
A whole mandarin fish, boned, scored deep and fried so the flesh fans out in spikes, then covered in a bright sweet-and-sour sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Huaiyang
Dazhu gansi
Pressed tofu shaved into hair-fine threads, simmered in a rich chicken stock with shreds of ham, chicken, bamboo shoot and prawns.
No one here has made it yet
Zhejiang
Longjing shrimp
Small peeled river shrimp, quick-fried pale and tender, then tossed with the fresh leaves of Longjing green tea.
No one here has made it yet
Fujian
Popiah
A soft, paper-thin wheat crêpe rolled round a filling of braised vegetables, egg, prawn and crushed peanuts.
No one here has made it yet
Fujian
Shacha noodles
Yellow noodles in a rich, orange, peanutty broth of shacha sauce, topped with your choice of seafood, offal and tofu.
No one here has made it yet
Japanese
Chawanmushi
A savoury egg custard, steamed in a teacup with dashi, and set so softly it barely holds.
2 versions here
Goan
Prawn balchão
Prawns cooked in a fiery, sweet-sour red paste of chilli, garlic and vinegar until thick — half curry, half pickle, and keeps for weeks.
No one here has made it yet
Valencian
Fideuà
Short, thin noodles cooked like a paella in a wide pan, in a strong fish stock with prawns and squid, until they curl up and crisp on top.
No one here has made it yet
Andalusian
Pescaíto frito
Small fish, squid and pieces of dogfish tossed in flour and fried fast in hot olive oil, eaten crisp with salt and lemon.
No one here has made it yet
Norman
Sole normande
Sole poached in wine or cider and fish stock, garnished with mussels, prawns and mushrooms, in a sauce of the reduced liquor with cream and egg yolks.
No one here has made it yet
Norman
Marmite dieppoise
Channel fish and shellfish — sole, scallops, mussels, prawns — cooked in a broth of leeks and white wine or cider, finished with cream.
No one here has made it yet
Creole and Cajun
Po'boy
A long New Orleans loaf — crackly crust, feather-light inside — filled with fried prawns or oysters, or roast beef in gravy.
No one here has made it yet
Jamaican
Jamaican pepper shrimp
Freshwater shrimp boiled in their shells with scotch bonnet, garlic and allspice until red and fiercely hot.
No one here has made it yet
Brazilian
Moqueca baiana
Fish, or prawns, stewed in coconut milk and dendê palm oil with tomato, peppers, onion, lime and coriander.
No one here has made it yet
Kinds
Tiger and king
Large, firm.
Small / shrimp
For custards and fillings.
Sweet (ama ebi)
Eaten raw in Japan.
Goes with
garlic
chilli
lime
butter
Cooked with, here
dashi
egg
ginkgo nut
light soy
mirin
mitsuba
How much, here
8–8%
of the dish by weight — a place to start.
Chawanmushi
4 prawns, shelled
Ana Etxarri · 8% of the dish
Chawanmushi, my grandmother's
4 prawns, shelled
Kenji Hara · 8% of the dish
Knowing it
Where to buy
Fishmongers. Raw frozen is fine; look for MSC or ASC certification.
More fish and seafood
Fish and seafood
Anchovies
salty, savoury, briny
savoury
rich
salty
1 classic
Fish and seafood
Bottarga
briny, waxy, rich, amber
savoury
rich
salty
Not cooked here yet
Fish and seafood
Crabs
sweet, briny, delicate
3 classics
Fish and seafood
Cuttlefish
sweet, dense, briny
Not cooked here yet
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