Ground ginger

A rhizome from maritime Southeast Asia, and one of the first spices traded to Rome.

What to do with it

Classics built on it
KashmiriRogan joshMutton on the bone, browned in hot fat and simmered with yoghurt, fennel, dried ginger and Kashmiri chilli into a deep red gravy that's fragrant more than fiery.No one here has made it yetKashmiriKashmiri yakhniMutton simmered in a pale, gently sour gravy of yoghurt scented with fennel, dried ginger and cardamom — no chilli, no turmeric.No one here has made it yetKashmiriGushtabaLarge, soft balls of mutton pounded smooth with fat, simmered in a spiced yoghurt gravy — traditionally the last meat course of the wazwan.No one here has made it yetKashmiriKashmiri dum alooSmall whole potatoes, pricked and fried golden, then simmered slowly in yoghurt with Kashmiri chilli, fennel and dried ginger.No one here has made it yetKashmiriTabak maazLamb ribs simmered in milk with whole spice until tender, then fried in ghee until crisp and glossy.No one here has made it yetMoroccanChicken with preserved lemon and olivesChicken braised with onion, ginger, saffron and turmeric until the sauce is thick, finished with preserved lemon and green olives.No one here has made it yetMoroccanCouscous with seven vegetablesSteamed couscous heaped round meat and a broth of seven vegetables — carrot, turnip, squash, courgette, cabbage, tomato, chickpeas — with broth to pour over.No one here has made it yetMoroccanPastillaA round pie of paper-thin warqa pastry filled with spiced pigeon or chicken, eggs and sugared almonds, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.No one here has made it yetMoroccanHariraA soup of tomato, lentils, chickpeas and a little lamb, thick with herbs and thickened at the end with flour, served with lemon and dates.No one here has made it yetNigerianSuyaThin beef skewers coated in yaji — ground groundnut cake, chilli and spice — and grilled over open coals.1 version hereCape MalayKoesistersSoft, spiced, doughnut-like dumplings, fried, dipped in syrup and rolled in coconut — for Sunday morning.No one here has made it yetBurgundianPain d'épices de DijonA dense, spiced honey loaf that keeps for weeks, sliced thin and eaten with butter or with foie gras.No one here has made it yet

Kinds

Mature
Tan skin, fibrous, hot.
Young
Pink tips, juicy, milder — often pickled.
Dried ground
A different, warmer heat. What yaji calls for.

Knowing it

Where to buy
Firm, heavy pieces with no wrinkles.

Kitchens that keep it in