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The market
· Beans and pulses · South Asia, The Middle East, East Africa
Red lentils
Split, hulled lentils that cook in minutes and collapse into softness.
earthy · mild
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Sri Lankan
Parippu
Red lentils cooked soft in coconut milk with turmeric and green chilli, then tempered with onion, mustard seed, curry leaves and rampe.
No one here has made it yet
Turkish
Mercimek çorbası
Red lentils cooked with onion, carrot and a little potato, blended smooth, with red pepper butter and a wedge of lemon.
No one here has made it yet
Ethiopian
Misir wat
Red lentils cooked in a berbere-spiced onion base until soft and thick — the everyday fasting stew.
No one here has made it yet
Goes with
ground cumin
turmeric
berbere
Knowing it
Where to buy
Anywhere; South Asian grocers sell them as masoor dal.
Kitchens that keep it in
West Bengal — eastern India, on the Ganges delta
Bengali
Fish, rice and mustard: a delta kitchen of sharp mustard oil and freshwater fish, eaten in courses from bitter to sweet, and ending with some of India's most famous sweets.
9 classics
Sri Lanka — an island in the Indian Ocean, off the southern tip of India
Sri Lankan
Rice and curry, coconut and heat: an island's cooking of dark-roasted spice, sour goraka and fierce sambols, shaped by Sinhala, Tamil, Muslim, Malay and Burgher kitchens.
10 classics
Turkey — Anatolia and Thrace, between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean
Turkish
Kebabs off the charcoal, yoghurt with nearly everything, vegetables slow-cooked in olive oil and pastry rolled thin as paper — the cooking of Anatolia and the Ottoman table.
10 classics
Ethiopia and Eritrea
Ethiopian
Stews called wat, deep with berbere and spiced butter, eaten with the hands from a shared platter of sour, spongy injera.
9 classics
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