The market · Grains and flours · South Asia, The Middle East

Basmati rice

Long, slender grains that lengthen as they cook and stay separate, with a nutty, floral smell — grown in the Himalayan foothills of India and Pakistan.

fragrant · nutty

What to do with it

Classics built on it
Uyghur and XinjiangUyghur poloRice steamed over lamb, onion and a heap of carrots in one deep pan, so it comes out glossy with the fat — the dish for guests and celebrations.No one here has made it yetKashmiriModur pulavRice cooked in ghee and milk with saffron, sugar, cinnamon and cardamom, studded with dried fruit and nuts.No one here has made it yetSouth IndianHyderabadi biryaniMarinated goat or chicken layered raw under half-cooked basmati, with saffron, fried onion and mint, then sealed and cooked slowly on dum.No one here has made it yetPersianTahdigThe golden crust of rice fried at the bottom of the pot and turned out whole — the part everyone reaches for first.No one here has made it yetPersianKabab koobidehMinced lamb and grated onion pressed by hand onto wide, flat skewers and grilled over coals — served on saffron rice with butter and sumac.No one here has made it yetPersianZereshk poloSaffron rice scattered with barberries fried in butter and a little sugar — jewel-red and sharp — usually served with chicken.No one here has made it yet

Kinds

Aged
Stored a year or more; drier grains that cook longer and more separate. The one for biryani and pulao.
Sella (parboiled)
Golden and very hard to overcook.
Brown
Bran on; nuttier, and takes twice as long.

Goes with

gheecardamom podsaffroncumin seed

Knowing it

Where to buy
South Asian grocers, in big bags. Look for 'aged' on the label.
Worth knowing
Rinse until the water runs clear and soak for 20–30 minutes: the grains lengthen rather than break.

Kitchens that keep it in

Iran — the high plateau between the Caspian Sea and the Persian GulfPersianSaffron rice with a golden crust, slow stews made sour with dried lime and pomegranate, and a heap of fresh herbs on every table — sweet, sharp and fragrant at once.10 classics

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