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The market
· Spices · South Asia, The Middle East, The Americas
Cumin seeds
Small, ridged seeds with a warm, earthy smell that turns toasty in hot fat.
earthy · warm · toasty
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Uyghur and Xinjiang
Uyghur polo
Rice steamed over lamb, onion and a heap of carrots in one deep pan, so it comes out glossy with the fat — the dish for guests and celebrations.
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Gujarati
Dal dhokli
Pieces of spiced wholewheat dough simmered in a sweet-sour toor dal with peanuts, jaggery and lemon — a whole meal in one pot.
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Gujarati
Gujarati kadhi
Yoghurt thickened with a little gram flour, simmered thin with ginger and chilli, sweetened slightly and tempered with ghee, cumin, clove and curry leaves.
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Gujarati
Sev tameta nu shaak
Tomatoes cooked down with garlic, chilli and a little jaggery into a sweet-sour gravy, with crisp gram-flour sev scattered over just before eating.
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Goan
Vindaloo
Pork marinated in a paste of dried red chillies, garlic and spice ground in vinegar, then cooked slowly until sharp, rich and deep red.
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Goan
Xacuti
Chicken or mutton in a dark, complex sauce of grated coconut and a long list of whole spices, all roasted until brown and ground together.
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Goan
Prawn balchão
Prawns cooked in a fiery, sweet-sour red paste of chilli, garlic and vinegar until thick — half curry, half pickle, and keeps for weeks.
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Goan
Sorpotel
Pork and pork liver boiled, diced small and cooked in a hot, sharp sauce of chilli, spice and vinegar — a Christmas and wedding dish, made days ahead.
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Goan
Goan fish curry
Fish simmered in a coconut sauce ground with red chillies and coriander seed, soured with kokum or tamarind — eaten with red rice every day in Goa.
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Goan
Goan sausage
Cubes of fatty pork cured with chilli, garlic, spice and vinegar, stuffed into casings, dried in the sun and smoked — then fried with onion and eaten in bread.
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Rajasthani
Dal baati churma
Hard, round wheat breads baked in the coals and soaked in ghee, eaten with a spiced mixed dal and churma — the same dough crushed with ghee and sugar.
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Rajasthani
Gatte ki sabzi
Dumplings of spiced gram flour, boiled and sliced, then simmered in a tangy yoghurt gravy.
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Rajasthani
Ker sangri
Dried desert berries and beans, soaked and cooked in oil with red chilli, dried mango and spice into something tangy, hot and chewy.
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South Indian
Rasam
A thin, peppery, sour broth of tamarind and tomato, with cumin and garlic — poured over rice, or drunk from a cup.
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South Indian
Chettinad chicken
Chicken in a dark, fiery masala of freshly roasted spices — pepper, dried chilli, fennel, star anise — with coconut and curry leaves.
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South Indian
Kori rotti
A chicken curry of coconut milk and roasted red chilli, poured over crisp, paper-thin wafers of dried rice that soften as you eat.
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Sri Lankan
Parippu
Red lentils cooked soft in coconut milk with turmeric and green chilli, then tempered with onion, mustard seed, curry leaves and rampe.
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Georgian
Khinkali
Large pleated dumplings of spiced minced meat that fill with broth as they boil, eaten by hand.
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Kinds
Whole seed
Bloomed in oil or ghee at the start — a tarka.
Ground
Best toasted and ground yourself; it fades fast.
Black cumin
Kala jeera: thinner, darker, sweeter. Not nigella, whatever the label says.
Goes with
coriander seed
ghee
chickpea
lamb
Knowing it
Where to buy
South Asian, Middle Eastern or Latin American grocers, in bags far cheaper than jars.
Worth knowing
Take it off the heat the moment it darkens a shade and smells nutty. Burnt cumin is bitter.
Kitchens that keep it in
Punjab — northern India and eastern Pakistan
Punjabi
Wheat, dairy and the tandoor: rich, generous cooking from the land of five rivers, and the source of much of what the world calls Indian food.
10 classics
Goa — the Konkan coast of western India
Goan
Coconut, chilli and vinegar: a coastal kitchen where Konkani fish curry and rice meet pork, bread and sweets from four and a half centuries of Portuguese rule.
9 classics
Rajasthan — the Thar Desert and the Aravalli hills of north-western India
Rajasthani
Desert cooking: millet, lentils and gram flour, ghee in generous measure, dried beans and berries that keep, fiery red meat from the Rajput courts and sweets made for festivals.
9 classics
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2 classics
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pungent, sulphurous, garlicky when cooked
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