The market · Seasonings and ferments
Chicken stock
Bones, water and time — the depth behind a great many dishes.
savoury
What to do with it
Kenji Hara's Sourdough, 100% ryeChicken stock would give it depthIbu Sari's Beef rendangChicken stock would give it depthRosa Ibarra's Clarified milk punch, mezcal and pineappleChicken stock would give it depthMira Kowalski's Pierogi ruskieChicken stock would give it depth
ThaiTom yumA hot and sour broth scented with lemongrass, galangal and lime leaf, sharpened with lime and fish sauce — usually with prawns.No one here has made it yetThaiKhao soiEgg noodles in a coconut curry broth with chicken or beef, under a tangle of crisp fried noodles, with pickled mustard greens, shallot and lime on the side.No one here has made it yetMalaysianCurry laksaNoodles in a rich, spiced coconut curry broth, with tofu puffs, prawns, chicken, bean sprouts and a spoonful of sambal.No one here has made it yetFilipinoPancit cantonThick egg noodles stir-fried with pork, chicken, prawns and vegetables in soy and stock, with calamansi to squeeze over.No one here has made it yet
CantoneseWonton noodle soupThin, springy egg noodles and prawn wontons in a clear broth, finished with a few chives.No one here has made it yetHunanSteamed trio of cured meatsSlices of smoked pork, cured chicken and cured fish packed together in a bowl with fermented black beans and chilli, and steamed until their fats and flavours mingle.No one here has made it yetShandongSweet and sour Yellow River carpA whole carp, scored deep, fried crisp with its head and tail curled up, and doused at the table in a hot, glossy sweet-and-sour sauce.No one here has made it yetShandongNine-turn intestinesShort lengths of pork intestine, cleaned, blanched, fried and then braised down in sugar, vinegar and soy until glossy — sweet, sour, salty, peppery and faintly bitter at once.No one here has made it yetShandongScallion-braised sea cucumberSoaked dried sea cucumber braised in stock and soy with spring onions fried slowly to gold, until it's soft, glossy and full of scallion.No one here has made it yetHuaiyangLion's head meatballsLarge, soft pork meatballs, gently stewed in stock over Chinese leaf until they're tender enough to eat with a spoon.No one here has made it yetHuaiyangDazhu gansiPressed tofu shaved into hair-fine threads, simmered in a rich chicken stock with shreds of ham, chicken, bamboo shoot and prawns.No one here has made it yetShanghaineseShanghai drunken chickenChicken poached until only just cooked, chilled, and steeped in Shaoxing wine or wine lees, then served cold as a starter.No one here has made it yetZhejiangShaoxing drunken chickenChicken poached gently, chilled, then steeped for a day or more in Shaoxing wine and served cold in pieces, skin smooth and pale.No one here has made it yetFujianBuddha jumps over the wallA banquet soup of abalone, sea cucumber, fish maw, scallops, meats and mushrooms, sealed in a jar with rice wine and simmered for hours.No one here has made it yetFujianFuzhou fish ballsSmooth, springy balls of fish paste with a juicy pork filling, served in a light broth.No one here has made it yetFujianShacha noodlesYellow noodles in a rich, orange, peanutty broth of shacha sauce, topped with your choice of seafood, offal and tofu.No one here has made it yetAnhuiStinky mandarin fishA whole mandarin fish, lightly salted and left for days until it smells, then fried and braised with pork, bamboo shoots and chilli.No one here has made it yetAnhuiHairy tofuBlocks of tofu left to grow a coat of fine white mould, then pan-fried golden and eaten with chilli sauce or braised in soy.No one here has made it yetAnhuiHuizhou one-potA deep iron pot layered with bamboo shoots, pork, fried tofu, egg dumplings and greens, simmered slowly and brought to the table whole.No one here has made it yetAnhuiLi Hongzhang hotchpotchA banquet mix of sea cucumber, fish maw, squid, ham, chicken, tofu and mushroom, simmered together in a good stock.No one here has made it yetBeijingGoubuli baoziSmall steamed buns of half-raised dough, pleated tightly over a juicy pork filling loosened with stock.No one here has made it yetYunnanCrossing-the-bridge noodlesA bowl of scalding broth under a layer of fat, with raw sliced meats, quail's egg, vegetables and rice noodles added at the table, in that order.No one here has made it yetSichuanMapo tofuSoft tofu in a fiery, glossy sauce of doubanjiang, fermented black beans, minced beef and ground Sichuan pepper.No one here has made it yetSichuanFish-fragrant aubergineAubergine fried soft, then braised in a sweet, sour, hot sauce of pickled chilli, garlic, ginger and spring onion — with no fish at all.No one here has made it yetJapaneseMiso ramenThick, wavy noodles in a rich broth seasoned with miso, under stir-fried pork, bean sprouts and cabbage — and in Hokkaido, often sweetcorn and a pat of butter.No one here has made it yetSri LankanKottu rotiFlatbread chopped on a hot griddle with two metal blades, tossed with vegetables, egg, meat and curry gravy.No one here has made it yetSri LankanLampraisRice cooked in stock, with a mixed-meat curry, frikkadels, prawn blachan, aubergine pickle and egg, wrapped in banana leaf and baked.No one here has made it yetGeorgianSatsiviPoached poultry in a thick sauce of ground walnuts, garlic and spices, served cold.No one here has made it yet
NigerianJollof riceRice cooked in a fried-down base of tomato, pepper and scotch bonnet, until each grain is red and separate.1 version hereNigerianMoi moiA steamed pudding of peeled black-eyed beans blended with red pepper, onion and oil, set soft in leaves or tins.No one here has made it yetValencianArròs al fornRice baked in a wide earthenware dish with chickpeas, pork, blood sausage, potato and tomato, with a whole head of garlic in the middle.No one here has made it yetCastilian and MadridPatatas bravasChunks of fried potato with a hot, pimentón-red sauce — the bar tapa found all over Spain.No one here has made it yetCastilian and MadridSopa castellanaGarlic soup: stale bread and sliced garlic fried in olive oil with pimentón, simmered in broth, with an egg poached in each bowl.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisRavioles du DauphinéTiny squares of pasta filled with cheese, fromage blanc and parsley, poached in stock for a minute or baked in cream.No one here has made it yet
ItalianAranciniBalls or cones of cooked rice around a filling of ragù or ham and cheese, breadcrumbed and fried until crisp.No one here has made it yetItalianTortellini in brodoTiny rings of fresh egg pasta around a filling of pork, mortadella, prosciutto and parmesan, served in a clear meat broth.No one here has made it yetGreekAvgolemonoChicken broth thickened with rice and a froth of egg and lemon, tempered in so it turns silky rather than scrambled.No one here has made it yetMexicanMole negroOaxaca's black mole: chilhuacle and other dried chillies toasted almost to char, ground with nuts, seeds, fruit, spice and chocolate into a near-black sauce.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunGumboA thick, dark stew-soup built on a roux and the holy trinity, with meat or seafood, served over rice.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunJambalayaRice cooked in one pot with the holy trinity, smoked sausage and chicken or seafood, until it has soaked up everything.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunCrawfish étoufféeCrawfish tails smothered in butter, the holy trinity and a little stock, into a thick, rich sauce over rice.No one here has made it yet
PeruvianAjí de gallinaShredded hen in a thick yellow sauce of ají amarillo, bread soaked in milk, nuts and cheese, over rice.No one here has made it yetPeruvianArroz con patoDuck browned and braised with beer, ají and a purée of coriander, then rice cooked in the green broth until it's full of flavour.No one here has made it yetPeruvianJuaneRice seasoned with turmeric and cumin, packed round chicken, egg and olive in bijao leaves, tied and boiled.No one here has made it yetBrazilianCoxinhaA teardrop-shaped croquette of shredded chicken wrapped in a dough made with its own stock, breaded and fried.No one here has made it yetKinds
- Brown stock
- From roasted bones: darker, richer.
- White stock
- From raw bones: cleaner, lighter.
- Cubes and pastes
- Saltier; common in West African cooking, and not a cheat there.
Goes with
Cooked with, here
How much, here
Knowing it
- Where to buy
- Make it from a roast carcass, or buy fresh stock from a butcher.
- Worth knowing
- Salt the dish, not the stock — it reduces.