The market · Herbs and aromatics · The Americas

Hoja santas

A big, heart-shaped Mexican leaf that smells of aniseed, root beer and black pepper. Used to wrap fish, cheese and tamales, and blended into Oaxaca's mole verde.

aniseed · root beer · peppery · minty

If you can't find it

Mexican grocers, rarely.

No real swap

No swap for its root-beer-and-anise perfume. A little fennel frond is a hint of it.

Goes with

fishgoat's cheesemasachicken

Knowing it

Where to buy
Mexican grocers, fresh or dried; dried loses much of the scent. It grows fast in a warm spot.
Worth knowing
Pass the leaf over a flame for a few seconds to bring out its scent, then wrap fish or fresh cheese in it and cook in a dry pan. Like sassafras, it contains safrole — an ingredient for flavour, not to eat by the plateful.

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