The market · Fruit · Northern and Central Europe
Apples
Hundreds of varieties, from sharp cookers that collapse to sweet eaters that hold.
crisp · tart
at its peakWhat to do with it
Ibu Sari's Beef rendangApple would cut through its richnessAna Etxarri's Pil pilApple would cut through its richnessTolu Adeyemi's SuyaApple would cut through its richnessTolu Adeyemi's Rendang, the Lagos wayApple would cut through its richness
NormanTarte normandeApples in a pastry case, covered in a custard of eggs, cream and sugar, often laced with Calvados, baked until just set.No one here has made it yetNormanPoulet vallée d'AugeChicken browned in butter, flamed with Calvados, simmered in cider and finished with cream and mushrooms, sometimes with apples.No one here has made it yetGascon and the South-WestPastis gasconApples soaked in Armagnac under layers of pastry stretched by hand until you can see through it, the top sheets ruffled and crisp.No one here has made it yetMexicanChiles en nogadaRoasted poblano chillies stuffed with a picadillo of meat and fruit, under a cold walnut cream and scattered with pomegranate and parsley.No one here has made it yet
Kitchens that keep it in
Asturias — the green mountains and coast of northern Spain, on the Bay of BiscayAsturianA kitchen of rain and mountains: big white beans stewed with smoked sausage, milk and blue cheese, fish from the Cantabrian Sea, and cider poured from a height.7 classicsNormandy — north-western France, along the Channel from the Seine to Mont-Saint-MichelNormanButter, cream, apples and the sea: orchards turned into cider and Calvados, pastures into Camembert and Livarot, and shellfish and sole from the Channel.9 classics
