The market · Meat

Lamb shoulder

A hard-working joint, well marbled and laced with connective tissue — for slow roasting and braising until it pulls apart.

rich · gamey
Lamb shoulder

What to do with it

Classics built on it
BeijingInstant-boiled muttonPaper-thin slices of raw mutton swished for a moment in plain boiling water, in a chimneyed copper pot over charcoal, then dipped in a rich sesame sauce.No one here has made it yetUyghur and XinjiangUyghur poloRice steamed over lamb, onion and a heap of carrots in one deep pan, so it comes out glossy with the fat — the dish for guests and celebrations.No one here has made it yetUyghur and XinjiangLaghmanThick hand-pulled noodles under a stir-fry of lamb, peppers, tomato, celery and onion — the everyday lunch of the region.No one here has made it yetUyghur and XinjiangKawapChunks of lamb and fat on skewers, grilled over charcoal and dusted with cumin, chilli and salt.No one here has made it yetUyghur and XinjiangSamsaSquare parcels of thin dough filled with lamb, fat and onion, baked against the wall of the tonur until blistered and crisp.No one here has made it yetLevantineMansafLamb cooked in a sauce of jameed — dried, fermented yoghurt — piled on rice over thin bread, with toasted almonds and pine nuts.No one here has made it yetPersianGhormeh sabziA deep green stew of herbs fried slowly in oil, with lamb, kidney beans and whole dried limes.No one here has made it yetTurkishİskender kebabThin slices of döner over cubes of pide, with tomato sauce, sizzling browned butter poured over at the table and thick yoghurt alongside.No one here has made it yetMoroccanCouscous with seven vegetablesSteamed couscous heaped round meat and a broth of seven vegetables — carrot, turnip, squash, courgette, cabbage, tomato, chickpeas — with broth to pour over.No one here has made it yetMoroccanHariraA soup of tomato, lentils, chickpeas and a little lamb, thick with herbs and thickened at the end with flour, served with lemon and dates.No one here has made it yetCape MalayTomato bredieLamb or mutton braised slowly with tomatoes, onions and potato, warm with cinnamon, cardamom and a little chilli.No one here has made it yetCape MalaySosatiesSkewers of lamb marinated overnight in a sweet-sour curry sauce with onions and dried apricots, grilled over coals.No one here has made it yetCape MalayDenningvleisLamb braised slowly with onions, bay leaves and allspice, soured with tamarind and sweetened a little.No one here has made it yetAlsatianBaeckeoffePork, lamb and beef marinated overnight in white wine, layered with potatoes and onions in an earthenware dish sealed with dough, and baked for hours.No one here has made it yet

Kinds

On the bone
The most flavour; for long, slow roasts.
Boned and rolled
Easier to carve, or to stuff.
Diced
For curries, tagines and stews.

Goes with

Knowing it

Where to buy
Butchers. Halal butchers are usually good value for diced shoulder.
Worth knowing
Salt it the night before. For pulled shoulder, cook it covered in a low oven for four hours or more.