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Every version you cook, kept — what you changed, how it went, what to try next.
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The market
Red onions
The first thing in the pan in half the world's recipes.
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Malaysian
Assam laksa
Thick rice noodles in a sour, spicy broth of flaked mackerel and tamarind, heaped with pineapple, cucumber, onion, mint and torch ginger flower, with sweet prawn paste on top.
No one here has made it yet
Malaysian
Satay
Skewers of turmeric-marinated meat grilled over charcoal, with a sweet, spicy peanut sauce, rice cakes, cucumber and onion.
No one here has made it yet
Filipino
Sisig
Pig's face and ears boiled, grilled and chopped fine with onion, chilli and calamansi, served on a sizzling iron plate.
No one here has made it yet
Sri Lankan
Pol sambol
Fresh grated coconut rubbed with chilli, red onion, Maldive fish, lime and salt until pink and fragrant.
No one here has made it yet
Ethiopian
Doro wat
Chicken stewed slowly in onions, berbere and niter kibbeh until dark and thick, with whole hard-boiled eggs.
No one here has made it yet
Ethiopian
Misir wat
Red lentils cooked in a berbere-spiced onion base until soft and thick — the everyday fasting stew.
No one here has made it yet
Ethiopian
Tibs
Cubes of beef or lamb seared hot with onion, green chilli and spiced butter — quick, where wat is slow.
No one here has made it yet
Ethiopian
Tihlo
Balls of dough made from roasted barley flour, dipped one at a time into a hot, spiced stew or berbere sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Ethiopian
Zigni
Beef stewed long with a mound of onions, berbere and spiced butter, often with tomato — red, thick and hot.
No one here has made it yet
Catalan
Esqueixada
A summer salad of raw salt cod torn into shreds, with tomato, onion, peppers and black olives, dressed with olive oil.
No one here has made it yet
Greek
Souvlaki
Small pieces of pork or chicken grilled on skewers, eaten from the stick or wrapped in pitta with tomato, onion, tzatziki and chips.
No one here has made it yet
Greek
Horiatiki
Village salad: ripe tomato, cucumber, onion, green pepper and olives, with a slab of feta, oregano and plenty of olive oil — and no lettuce.
No one here has made it yet
Peruvian
Ceviche
Raw white fish cut into chunks and cured briefly in lime juice with red onion, chilli and salt.
No one here has made it yet
Peruvian
Lomo saltado
Strips of beef stir-fried in a wok with onion, tomato, soy and vinegar, served with chips and rice.
No one here has made it yet
Peruvian
Pan con chicharrón
Pork simmered then fried in its own fat, in a crusty roll with fried sweet potato and salsa criolla.
No one here has made it yet
Peruvian
Salsa criolla
Red onion sliced thin and soaked, dressed with lime, ají, coriander and salt.
No one here has made it yet
Peruvian
Arroz con pato
Duck browned and braised with beer, ají and a purée of coriander, then rice cooked in the green broth until it's full of flavour.
No one here has made it yet
Kinds
Brown / yellow
The all-rounder; sweetens as it browns.
Red
Milder — good raw.
White
Sharp and clean.
Knowing it
Where to buy
Anywhere. Firm, with dry, papery skins.
Worth knowing
Properly browned takes 30 minutes or more on low heat, not ten.
Kitchens that keep it in
Sri Lanka — an island in the Indian Ocean, off the southern tip of India
Sri Lankan
Rice and curry, coconut and heat: an island's cooking of dark-roasted spice, sour goraka and fierce sambols, shaped by Sinhala, Tamil, Muslim, Malay and Burgher kitchens.
10 classics
Ethiopia and Eritrea
Ethiopian
Stews called wat, deep with berbere and spiced butter, eaten with the hands from a shared platter of sour, spongy injera.
9 classics
Peru — the Pacific coast, the Andes and the Amazon
Peruvian
Andean potatoes, maize and chillies, met by Spanish, African, Chinese and Japanese cooks — and a coast that eats its fish raw in lime.
10 classics
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