The market · Dairy and eggs · The Caucasus

Sulguni

Georgian brined cheese, stretched like mozzarella — springy, salty and milky, and a melting cheese for khachapuri.

milky · salty · tangy

Kinds

Fresh
Soft; for khachapuri.
Smoked
Firmer, with a smoked rind.

Goes with

eggbutterminttomato

Knowing it

Where to buy
Georgian, Russian and Eastern European shops. Mozzarella mixed with a little feta is the usual swap.

Kitchens that keep it in

Georgia — the South Caucasus, between the Black Sea and the CaspianGeorgianWalnuts ground into sauces, fistfuls of fresh herbs, cheese breads and sour plums — cooking made for long tables and long toasts.10 classics

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