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The market
· Chillies and peppers
Chilli flakes
Crushed dried red chillies, seeds and all — peperoncino in Italy, on every pizzeria table.
hot · fruity
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Thai
Larb
Minced meat cooked briefly and dressed warm with lime, fish sauce, chilli and toasted ground rice, with shallot, mint and coriander.
No one here has made it yet
Hunan
Changsha stinky tofu
Black squares of fermented tofu, deep-fried until puffed and crisp, then pierced and filled with a sauce of chilli, garlic, soy and sesame oil.
No one here has made it yet
Yunnan
Rubing
A firm fresh cheese of goat's milk, pressed into blocks, then sliced and fried or grilled until golden, and eaten with salt and pepper or sugar.
No one here has made it yet
Uyghur and Xinjiang
Laghman
Thick hand-pulled noodles under a stir-fry of lamb, peppers, tomato, celery and onion — the everyday lunch of the region.
No one here has made it yet
Uyghur and Xinjiang
Kawap
Chunks of lamb and fat on skewers, grilled over charcoal and dusted with cumin, chilli and salt.
No one here has made it yet
Sichuan
Mapo tofu
Soft tofu in a fiery, glossy sauce of doubanjiang, fermented black beans, minced beef and ground Sichuan pepper.
No one here has made it yet
Sichuan
Chilli oil wontons
Silky pork wontons, folded small, in a pool of red chilli oil, soy, black vinegar and garlic.
No one here has made it yet
Sichuan
Bobo chicken
Cold poached chicken and other morsels on bamboo skewers, steeped in a bowl of red chilli oil with Sichuan pepper, and paid for by the stick.
No one here has made it yet
Sri Lankan
Kottu roti
Flatbread chopped on a hot griddle with two metal blades, tossed with vegetables, egg, meat and curry gravy.
No one here has made it yet
Sri Lankan
Pol sambol
Fresh grated coconut rubbed with chilli, red onion, Maldive fish, lime and salt until pink and fragrant.
No one here has made it yet
Levantine
Muhammara
A thick dip of roasted red peppers, walnuts, breadcrumbs and pomegranate molasses — smoky, sweet, sour and hot at once.
No one here has made it yet
Turkish
Lahmacun
A round of dough rolled very thin, spread with raw minced lamb, onion, pepper and tomato, and baked for a minute or two in a very hot oven.
No one here has made it yet
Turkish
Menemen
Eggs stirred soft into green peppers and tomatoes stewed in butter or olive oil, eaten from the pan.
No one here has made it yet
Turkish
Mantı
Tiny meat-filled dumplings, boiled and served under garlicky yoghurt, with butter sizzled with red pepper poured over.
No one here has made it yet
Turkish
Çılbır
Poached eggs on garlicky yoghurt, with butter foamed with red pepper poured over the top.
No one here has made it yet
Turkish
Mercimek çorbası
Red lentils cooked with onion, carrot and a little potato, blended smooth, with red pepper butter and a wedge of lemon.
No one here has made it yet
Goes with
garlic
olive oil
pasta
anchovy
Knowing it
Where to buy
Anywhere. Heat varies a lot from one jar to the next; taste a flake.
Worth knowing
Warm them in the oil at the start to spread the heat; scatter at the end to keep it sharp.
Kitchens that keep it in
Xinjiang, north-western China
Uyghur and Xinjiang
The cooking of the desert oases in China's far north-west: lamb, cumin and chilli, hand-pulled noodles, pilaf, and breads baked on the walls of a clay oven.
7 classics
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1 classic
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fruity, tangy, warm
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