The market · Spirits · France and the north-west

Cognac

Grape brandy from the Charente around Cognac, double-distilled in copper pot stills and aged in French oak — fruitier and more floral than whisky, with dried apricot and vanilla.

dried apricot · vanilla · floral

What to do with it

Classics built on it
BretonHomard à l'armoricaineLobster cut up live, seared in its shell, flamed with cognac and simmered in white wine, tomato and shallots with a touch of cayenne.No one here has made it yetThe cocktail barClarified milk punchA punch poured into milk, left to curdle and strained clear: silky, glass-bright, and stable for weeks.2 versions here

Kinds

VS
At least two years in oak. For mixing.
VSOP
At least four years. The best all-rounder for drinks.
XO
At least ten years. For sipping.

Goes with

orange liqueurlemon juicesweet vermouthbénédictine

Knowing it

Where to buy
A VSOP from a smaller house is often better value than a big-name VS. 'Fine Champagne' means a blend of the two best growing areas — nothing to do with the wine.
Worth knowing
The classic base for clarified milk punch: cognac and rum with lemon, sugar and spice, curdled into whole milk, then strained slowly through the curds themselves. Re-pour the first cloudy runnings until they come through clear; the punch keeps for months.

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