The market · Dairy and eggs

Egg whites

The foam on a sour: its proteins unfold when shaken and trap air, giving a silky body and a head that holds.

neutral · silky · foams

What to do with it

Classics built on it
CantoneseDouble-skin milkA smooth, lightly sweet milk pudding, set with egg white and steamed, with a skin that forms on top twice.No one here has made it yetTeochewTeochew fish ballsWhite, bouncy balls of fish paste beaten by hand, cooked in simmering water and served in clear soup or with noodles.No one here has made it yetZhejiangLongjing shrimpSmall peeled river shrimp, quick-fried pale and tender, then tossed with the fresh leaves of Longjing green tea.No one here has made it yetValencianTurrónA Christmas sweet of almonds and honey — hard and crunchy in the Alicante style, soft and ground to a paste in the Xixona style.No one here has made it yet

Goes with

lemon juicebourbonpiscosimple syrup

Cooked with, here

blanco tequilabourboncharred corn syruplemon juice

How much, here

Corn sour, charred cob syrup20ml egg whiteRosa Ibarra · 16% of the dish

Knowing it

Where to buy
Fresh eggs, or pasteurised whites in a carton, which foam nearly as well.
Worth knowing
Dry shake without ice first to build the foam, then shake again with ice to chill it — or the other way round, a reverse dry shake, for a tighter foam. About 20–30ml a drink.

Kitchens that keep it in

New York, Mexico City, London, BarcelonaThe cocktail barSpirit, acid and sugar balanced to the gram — and lately a lab's worth of technique: clarifying, fat-washing, infusing, carbonating, until a drink can taste of a whole dish.9 classics · 4 cooked here

More dairy and eggs

Dairy and eggsAged goudabutterscotch, nutty, crystallinesavouryNot cooked here yetDairy and eggsBurratamilky, creamy, freshNot cooked here yetDairy and eggsButtercreamy, nutty when brownedrichIn Pierogi ruskie, Comté French Toast Bites and 1 more · 79 classicsDairy and eggsComténutty, brothy, fruitysavouryrich2 classics