The market · Mushrooms · East Asia, The Americas

Maitake mushrooms

Hen of the woods: a frilly, many-layered clump that grows at the foot of oaks — woodsy and a little peppery, with edges that crisp like nothing else when pressed into a hot pan.

woodsy · peppery · crisp-edged when seared

What to do with it

Kenji Hara's Sourdough, 100% ryeMaitake mushroom would give it depthIbu Sari's Beef rendangMaitake mushroom would give it depthRosa Ibarra's Clarified milk punch, mezcal and pineappleMaitake mushroom would give it depthMira Kowalski's Pierogi ruskieMaitake mushroom would give it depth

Kinds

Wild
Autumn, at the base of old oaks; a single clump can weigh several kilos.
Cultivated
Neat, small clusters all year; milder but reliable.

Goes with

buttersoy saucethymeegg yolk

Knowing it

Where to buy
Cultivated from Japanese grocers and good greengrocers — firm, dry and not slimy at the base. Wild from foragers and markets in autumn. Not to be confused with chicken of the woods, a different, orange mushroom.
Worth knowing
Tear it into clusters rather than slicing, and sear under a weight in a hot pan with a little oil until the frilly edges are crisp, then add butter. Clean a wild one carefully; grit hides deep in the folds.

More mushrooms, in season with it

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