The market · Spices · Southeast Asia, Northern and Central Europe, Southern Europe

Nutmegs

The seed of a tropical tree, warm and sweet — for white sauces, spinach and baking.

warm · sweet-spiced · woody

What to do with it

Classics built on it
BalineseBase genepThe complete Balinese spice paste: shallot, garlic, four rhizomes, chilli, candlenut, shrimp paste and warm spices, ground together.No one here has made it yetMinahasanBrenebonA thick soup of red kidney beans with pork, nutmeg and clove, a Minahasan descendant of Dutch brown-bean soup.No one here has made it yetGoanXacutiChicken or mutton in a dark, complex sauce of grated coconut and a long list of whole spices, all roasted until brown and ground together.No one here has made it yetGoanBebincaA tall cake of many thin layers — coconut milk, egg yolks, sugar and flour, with ghee between them — each baked under a grill before the next is poured.No one here has made it yetSri LankanWatalappanA steamed custard of kithul jaggery, coconut milk and eggs, spiced with cardamom and nutmeg and topped with cashews.No one here has made it yetNigerianPuff-puffSoft, round balls of sweet yeasted dough, deep-fried until brown and puffed — street snack and party food.No one here has made it yetCape MalayDenningvleisLamb braised slowly with onions, bay leaves and allspice, soured with tamarind and sweetened a little.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisQuenelles de brochetLight dumplings of pike and a flour-and-egg panade, poached and then baked until they puff, usually in a crayfish sauce Nantua.No one here has made it yetLyonnaisGratin dauphinoisThinly sliced potatoes baked slowly in milk and cream with garlic, until soft underneath and golden on top.No one here has made it yetItalianTortellini in brodoTiny rings of fresh egg pasta around a filling of pork, mortadella, prosciutto and parmesan, served in a clear meat broth.No one here has made it yetGreekMoussakaLayers of fried aubergine and minced lamb or beef in a cinnamon-scented tomato sauce, under a thick crust of béchamel, baked.No one here has made it yetGreekSpanakopitaSpinach and feta with spring onion and dill, baked in crisp layers of filo — as one big pie or small triangles.No one here has made it yet

Kinds

Nutmeg
The seed itself; grate it fresh.
Mace
The lacy red covering around the seed: gentler, more delicate.

Goes with

Knowing it

Where to buy
Whole, always. A single nut lasts months.
A little history
From the Banda Islands in Indonesia, the only source of it for centuries.

More spices