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The market
· Spices · Southeast Asia, Northern and Central Europe, Southern Europe
Nutmegs
The seed of a tropical tree, warm and sweet — for white sauces, spinach and baking.
warm · sweet-spiced · woody
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Balinese
Base genep
The complete Balinese spice paste: shallot, garlic, four rhizomes, chilli, candlenut, shrimp paste and warm spices, ground together.
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Minahasan
Brenebon
A thick soup of red kidney beans with pork, nutmeg and clove, a Minahasan descendant of Dutch brown-bean soup.
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Goan
Xacuti
Chicken or mutton in a dark, complex sauce of grated coconut and a long list of whole spices, all roasted until brown and ground together.
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Goan
Bebinca
A tall cake of many thin layers — coconut milk, egg yolks, sugar and flour, with ghee between them — each baked under a grill before the next is poured.
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Sri Lankan
Watalappan
A steamed custard of kithul jaggery, coconut milk and eggs, spiced with cardamom and nutmeg and topped with cashews.
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Nigerian
Puff-puff
Soft, round balls of sweet yeasted dough, deep-fried until brown and puffed — street snack and party food.
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Cape Malay
Denningvleis
Lamb braised slowly with onions, bay leaves and allspice, soured with tamarind and sweetened a little.
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Lyonnais
Quenelles de brochet
Light dumplings of pike and a flour-and-egg panade, poached and then baked until they puff, usually in a crayfish sauce Nantua.
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Lyonnais
Gratin dauphinois
Thinly sliced potatoes baked slowly in milk and cream with garlic, until soft underneath and golden on top.
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Italian
Tortellini in brodo
Tiny rings of fresh egg pasta around a filling of pork, mortadella, prosciutto and parmesan, served in a clear meat broth.
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Greek
Moussaka
Layers of fried aubergine and minced lamb or beef in a cinnamon-scented tomato sauce, under a thick crust of béchamel, baked.
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Greek
Spanakopita
Spinach and feta with spring onion and dill, baked in crisp layers of filo — as one big pie or small triangles.
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Kinds
Nutmeg
The seed itself; grate it fresh.
Mace
The lacy red covering around the seed: gentler, more delicate.
Goes with
butter
milk
spinach
potato
Knowing it
Where to buy
Whole, always. A single nut lasts months.
A little history
From the Banda Islands in Indonesia, the only source of it for centuries.
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pungent, sulphurous, garlicky when cooked
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