The market · Fish and seafood · East Asia, Southern Europe

Sea urchins

Uni, oursin, riccio: inside the spiny shell are five tongues of orange roe — sweet, rich, creamy, and tasting of clean, cold seawater.

sweet · creamy · oceanic

What to do with it

Goes with

spaghettisushi ricebutteregg

Knowing it

Where to buy
Live and heavy from good fishmongers, spines still moving; or cleaned roe in trays from Japanese suppliers. The roe should be firm, bright and sweet-smelling — slumped or bitter is old. Tray uni is often treated with alum to hold its shape, which can taste bitter.
Worth knowing
Keep it as cold as possible and serve it within a day. To open, cut round the mouth on the flat underside with scissors, pour off the liquid and lift out the tongues with a teaspoon. Heat it only gently — stirred into hot pasta or butter off the heat — or it turns grainy.

More fish and seafood, in season with it