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The market
· Spices · The Americas, South Asia
Chilli powder
Dried chillies, ground. Heat and colour vary enormously by what went in.
warm · earthy
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Sundanese
Empal gentong
Beef and offal stewed in a spiced coconut broth in a clay pot over a wood fire, with rice or lontong and dried chilli to sprinkle.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Butter chicken
Tandoori chicken simmered in a mild, silky sauce of tomato, butter and cream, scented with dried fenugreek.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Dal makhani
Whole black lentils and kidney beans, simmered for hours with butter, tomato and cream until thick and velvety.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Chole bhature
Chickpeas cooked dark, sharp and spicy, with bhature — big, puffed breads of soured dough, deep-fried.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Aloo paratha
Wholewheat flatbread stuffed with spiced potato, rolled thin and cooked on a tawa with ghee, eaten with white butter, yoghurt and pickle.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Tandoori chicken
Chicken on the bone, marinated in yoghurt, lemon and spice, then roasted fast in the fierce heat of a clay tandoor.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Amritsari kulcha
A leavened flatbread stuffed with spiced potato, pressed with coriander seed, slapped onto the wall of a tandoor and served dripping with butter beside chole.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Amritsari fish
White fish in a gram-flour batter sharp with ajwain, chilli and lemon, deep-fried crisp and eaten hot with chaat masala and chutney.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Chargha
A whole chicken slashed and marinated in yoghurt, lemon and spice, steamed until tender, then deep-fried until the outside is crisp.
No one here has made it yet
Bengali
Macher jhol
Freshwater fish, fried in mustard oil, then simmered in a thin, gingery broth with potato and turmeric — Bengal's everyday fish curry, eaten over rice.
No one here has made it yet
Bengali
Kolkata kathi roll
A flaky paratha fried with a beaten egg on one side, then rolled around skewered kebab, raw onion, green chilli and lime — Kolkata's street food.
No one here has made it yet
Gujarati
Thepla
Thin, soft flatbreads of wholewheat flour kneaded with fresh fenugreek, yoghurt and spice, cooked on a griddle with a little oil.
No one here has made it yet
Gujarati
Dal dhokli
Pieces of spiced wholewheat dough simmered in a sweet-sour toor dal with peanuts, jaggery and lemon — a whole meal in one pot.
No one here has made it yet
Gujarati
Handvo
A savoury cake of fermented rice and lentil batter with grated bottle gourd, baked or pan-cooked until crusty and topped with a mustard and sesame tempering.
No one here has made it yet
Gujarati
Dabeli
A soft bread roll split and stuffed with a sweet, hot potato filling, tamarind-date chutney, masala peanuts, pomegranate and sev, then toasted in butter.
No one here has made it yet
Gujarati
Sev tameta nu shaak
Tomatoes cooked down with garlic, chilli and a little jaggery into a sweet-sour gravy, with crisp gram-flour sev scattered over just before eating.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Dal baati churma
Hard, round wheat breads baked in the coals and soaked in ghee, eaten with a spiced mixed dal and churma — the same dough crushed with ghee and sugar.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Gatte ki sabzi
Dumplings of spiced gram flour, boiled and sliced, then simmered in a tangy yoghurt gravy.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Ker sangri
Dried desert berries and beans, soaked and cooked in oil with red chilli, dried mango and spice into something tangy, hot and chewy.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Pyaaz kachori
A flaky, deep-fried pastry filled with onion cooked down with fennel, coriander seed and chilli, eaten with tamarind and mint chutneys.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Bikaneri bhujia
Crisp, thin threads of moth-bean and gram-flour dough, spiced with black pepper and ajwain and fried in oil.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Mirchi bada
Big, mild green chillies stuffed with spiced potato, dipped in gram-flour batter and deep-fried.
No one here has made it yet
South Indian
Hyderabadi biryani
Marinated goat or chicken layered raw under half-cooked basmati, with saffron, fried onion and mint, then sealed and cooked slowly on dum.
No one here has made it yet
Sri Lankan
Fish ambul thiyal
Cubes of tuna cooked almost dry in a dark paste of goraka and black pepper, until each piece is coated.
No one here has made it yet
Nigerian
Suya
Thin beef skewers coated in yaji — ground groundnut cake, chilli and spice — and grilled over open coals.
1 version here
Kinds
Cayenne
Pure, hot, bright red.
Kashmiri
Mild, and used for its deep red colour.
American chili powder
A blend, with cumin and oregano — not the same thing.
Goes with
cumin
paprika
garlic
Cooked with, here
beef sirloin
ginger
kuli kuli
onion
How much, here
Suya
2 tbsp chilli powder
Tolu Adeyemi · 1.5% of the dish
Knowing it
Where to buy
Spice shops and African, Caribbean or South Asian grocers. Buy small; it fades within months.
A little history
Chillies are from the Americas. Portuguese traders carried them to Africa and Asia in the 16th century, and they took hold everywhere they landed.
More spices
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Achiote paste
earthy, peppery
2 classics
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Ajwain
thyme-like, sharp, bitter
8 classics
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Allspice
warm, sweet-spiced, peppery
2 classics
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Asafoetida
pungent, sulphurous, garlicky when cooked
12 classics
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