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The market
· Vegetables · The Middle East, South Asia, Northern and Central Europe
Cucumbers
Mostly water: cool, crisp, and the counterweight to heat, fat and spice.
cool · fresh · green
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Javanese
Nasi goreng
Yesterday's rice fried with shallot, garlic, chilli and shrimp paste, darkened with kecap manis and topped with a fried egg.
No one here has made it yet
Javanese
Gado-gado
Blanched vegetables, potato, tofu, tempeh, egg and lontong under a thick peanut sauce, with prawn crackers on top.
No one here has made it yet
Sundanese
Nasi timbel
Rice rolled hot in banana leaf, served with fried chicken, tofu, tempeh, salted fish, raw vegetables and sambal.
No one here has made it yet
Sundanese
Karedok
Raw vegetables — long beans, cucumber, sprouts, cabbage, small aubergines and lemon basil — in a peanut sauce sharp with kencur.
No one here has made it yet
Sundanese
Lalapan and sambal terasi
Raw leaves and vegetables — cucumber, cabbage, lemon basil, long beans, small aubergines — with a sambal of chilli, toasted shrimp paste and tomato.
No one here has made it yet
Vietnamese
Bánh mì
A light, crackling-crusted baguette filled with pâté, cold cuts or grilled meat, pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, coriander and chilli.
No one here has made it yet
Malaysian
Nasi lemak
Rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan, with sambal, crisp anchovies, peanuts, cucumber and egg.
No one here has made it yet
Malaysian
Assam laksa
Thick rice noodles in a sour, spicy broth of flaked mackerel and tamarind, heaped with pineapple, cucumber, onion, mint and torch ginger flower, with sweet prawn paste on top.
No one here has made it yet
Malaysian
Satay
Skewers of turmeric-marinated meat grilled over charcoal, with a sweet, spicy peanut sauce, rice cakes, cucumber and onion.
No one here has made it yet
Malaysian
Nasi kerabu
Rice dyed blue with butterfly pea flowers, eaten with finely shredded herbs, kerisik, fish or chicken, budu and sambal.
No one here has made it yet
Beijing
Peking duck
A whole duck, its skin dried and glazed, roasted until it shatters, then carved at the table and wrapped in thin pancakes with sweet bean sauce, spring onion and cucumber.
No one here has made it yet
Beijing
Zhajiangmian
Thick wheat noodles under a spoonful of dark, salty sauce — bean paste fried slowly with diced pork — and a heap of raw, crunchy vegetables to mix through.
No one here has made it yet
Levantine
Fattoush
A salad of crisp leaves, tomato, cucumber, radish and herbs with shards of toasted or fried flatbread, in a sharp dressing of lemon and sumac.
No one here has made it yet
Andalusian
Gazpacho
A cold soup of raw tomato, pepper, cucumber, garlic, bread, olive oil and vinegar, blended smooth and drunk in the heat.
No one here has made it yet
Greek
Horiatiki
Village salad: ripe tomato, cucumber, onion, green pepper and olives, with a slab of feta, oregano and plenty of olive oil — and no lettuce.
No one here has made it yet
Greek
Tzatziki
Thick strained yoghurt with grated cucumber, garlic, olive oil and dill or mint — cold, sharp and made for grilled meat.
No one here has made it yet
Kinds
Long / English
Thin-skinned, grown under glass.
Small Middle Eastern
Short, thin skins, few seeds, more flavour.
Pickling
Small and knobbly — Polish ogórki, dill pickles.
Goes with
yoghurt
dill
mint
rice vinegar
Knowing it
Where to buy
Firm all the way to the ends.
Worth knowing
Salt slices for 15 minutes and squeeze, and they stay crisp in a dressing.
Kitchens that keep it in
Andalucía — the south of Spain, from the Atlantic at Cádiz to the Mediterranean at Almería
Andalusian
The hot south: cold soups pounded from bread, oil and garlic, fish fried crisp in olive oil, sherry from Jerez, and a little something to eat with every drink.
7 classics
More vegetables, in season with it
Vegetables
Asparagus
grassy, sweet
Not cooked here yet
Vegetables
Aubergines
smoky when charred, creamy
14 classics
Vegetables
Bitter melons
bitter, green, grassy
bitter
1 classic
Vegetables
Broad beans
nutty, green
Not cooked here yet
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