The market · Seasonings and ferments · Southern Europe, Northern and Central Europe

Garum

The fermented fish sauce of ancient Rome, made by salting fish and leaving it for months until it turned to a savoury liquid. Modern kitchens use the name for any koji-driven sauce of meat, fish or mushroom held warm for weeks.

salty · meaty · deeply savoury

What to do with it

Kenji Hara's Sourdough, 100% ryeGarum would give it depthIbu Sari's Beef rendangGarum would give it depthAna Etxarri's ChawanmushiGarum would season itRosa Ibarra's Clarified milk punch, mezcal and pineappleGarum would give it depth

Kinds

Fish garum
Roman-style; a handful of producers make it again.
Koji garum
Protein, koji, salt and water held around 60°C for weeks — the restaurant kind, from beef, chicken wings or mushrooms.

If you can't find it

Specialist shops.

  1. 1Fish sauce
    The same
    You lose little.

Goes with

butterolive oilvinegaregg yolk

Knowing it

Where to buy
Specialist importers and online. Colatura or a good fish sauce is the nearest swap.
A little history
Made all around the Roman Mediterranean, with large production sites in southern Spain and Portugal.
Worth knowing
Use it like fish sauce, by the drop: whisked into a beurre blanc, a vinaigrette, or the butter for basting.

More seasonings and ferments

Seasonings and fermentsAmazakesweet, ricey, creamyNot cooked here yetSeasonings and fermentsApple brandyappley, warm, oaky3 classicsSeasonings and fermentsAsam kandissour, tartsourNot cooked here yetSeasonings and fermentsAwazehot, warm, tangyhotNot cooked here yet