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The market
· Alliums · Northern and Central Europe
Leeks
The gentlest allium: long, layered, sweet once it's softened slowly in butter.
sweet · gentle
at its peak
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Hunan
Hunan smoked pork
Pork belly salted, then smoked for weeks over a wood fire until dark and firm, sliced thin and stir-fried with garlic shoots or leeks and chilli.
No one here has made it yet
Sichuan
Twice-cooked pork
Pork belly simmered whole, sliced thin, then stir-fried until the edges curl, with chilli bean paste and green garlic or leeks.
No one here has made it yet
Sri Lankan
Kottu roti
Flatbread chopped on a hot griddle with two metal blades, tossed with vegetables, egg, meat and curry gravy.
No one here has made it yet
Provençal
Bouillabaisse
Marseille's fish stew: bony rockfish boiled hard with olive oil, tomato, fennel and saffron, served with rouille and bread.
No one here has made it yet
Alsatian
Baeckeoffe
Pork, lamb and beef marinated overnight in white wine, layered with potatoes and onions in an earthenware dish sealed with dough, and baked for hours.
No one here has made it yet
Norman
Tripes à la mode de Caen
Beef tripe and ox foot cooked for many hours in cider and Calvados with onions, carrots and leeks, in a sealed earthenware pot.
No one here has made it yet
Norman
Marmite dieppoise
Channel fish and shellfish — sole, scallops, mussels, prawns — cooked in a broth of leeks and white wine or cider, finished with cream.
No one here has made it yet
Gascon and the South-West
Garbure
A thick farmhouse soup of cabbage, beans and root vegetables, cooked with ham and confit until a spoon nearly stands in it.
No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic rye
Bergensk fiskesuppe
A pale, creamy fish soup of white fish and root vegetables, finished with a little vinegar and sugar, often with fish balls in it.
No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic rye
Lohikeitto
A creamy Finnish soup of salmon, potatoes and leek in a light stock, with plenty of dill and whole allspice.
No one here has made it yet
Goes with
butter
potato
cream
cheese
Knowing it
Where to buy
Anywhere. Smaller leeks are sweeter; wash out the grit between the layers.
More alliums, in season with it
Alliums
Garlic chives
garlicky, grassy
3 classics
Alliums
Onions
sweet, pungent
In Jollof, party style, Pierogi ruskie and 1 more · 151 classics
Alliums
Wild garlic
grassy, garlicky
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