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The market
· Meat · Southern Europe
Chorizos
Spanish pork sausage coloured and flavoured with pimentón and garlic.
smoky · garlicky · rich
What to do with it
Ana Etxarri's Chawanmushi
Chorizo would season it
Rosa Ibarra's Clarified milk punch, mezcal and pineapple
Chorizo would soften its edge
Tolu Adeyemi's Jollof, party style
Chorizo would season it
Mira Kowalski's Pierogi ruskie
Chorizo would season it
Classics built on it
Galician
Lacón con grelos
Cured pork shoulder boiled with turnip tops, chorizo and potatoes, and served on one great platter with olive oil and pimentón.
No one here has made it yet
Castilian and Madrid
Cocido madrileño
Chickpeas, meats, sausages and vegetables simmered for hours in one pot, then served in turns: the broth with noodles, then everything else.
No one here has made it yet
Castilian and Madrid
Callos a la madrileña
Beef tripe stewed slowly with chorizo, morcilla and jamón in a thick, sticky, pimentón-red sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Asturian
Fabada asturiana
Large, buttery white beans stewed slowly with smoked chorizo, morcilla and pork belly until the broth thickens.
No one here has made it yet
Asturian
Chorizo a la sidra
Smoked Asturian chorizo simmered in dry cider until the sausage is soft and the cider has cooked down to a sharp, red, rich sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Kinds
Cooking chorizo
Soft and semi-cured; for frying, stews and bean pots.
Cured
Dry; sliced and eaten like salami.
Mexican chorizo
Fresh and loose, with chilli and vinegar — a different thing.
Goes with
chickpea
potato
egg
red pepper
Knowing it
Where to buy
Spanish delis.
Worth knowing
Start sliced cooking chorizo in a cold pan: it gives up its red, paprika-scented fat to cook everything else in.
Kitchens that keep it in
Galicia — Spain's green, rainy north-west corner, on the Atlantic above Portugal
Galician
Spain's great seafood coast — octopus, mussels, scallops and barnacles — with a green, rainy inland of pork, turnip tops, soft cows' milk cheeses and pies baked to share.
6 classics
Castile and Madrid — the high central plateau of Spain, the meseta
Castilian and Madrid
The kitchen of the high, dry meseta: suckling pig and lamb roasted in wood-fired ovens, chickpeas and garlic soups for hard winters, and a capital that eats out, late and standing up.
10 classics
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