The market · Meat · The Americas, France and the north-west

Andouilles

A coarse, smoked pork sausage — in Louisiana, spicy and essential in gumbo, jambalaya and red beans. The French andouille is a different sausage made from tripe.

smoky · spicy · porky

What to do with it

Kenji Hara's Sourdough, 100% ryeAndouille would give it depthIbu Sari's Beef rendangAndouille would give it depthAna Etxarri's ChawanmushiAndouille would season itRosa Ibarra's Clarified milk punch, mezcal and pineappleAndouille would soften its edge
Classics built on it
Creole and CajunGumboA thick, dark stew-soup built on a roux and the holy trinity, with meat or seafood, served over rice.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunJambalayaRice cooked in one pot with the holy trinity, smoked sausage and chicken or seafood, until it has soaked up everything.No one here has made it yetCreole and CajunRed beans and riceRed kidney beans cooked for hours with a ham bone, smoked sausage and the trinity until creamy, over rice.No one here has made it yet

Goes with

red beanokraricebell pepper

Knowing it

Where to buy
American and Cajun importers, or a butcher who smokes sausages. A good smoked chorizo or kielbasa can stand in.
Worth knowing
Brown slices first and build the dish on the fat they leave.

Kitchens that keep it in

Brittany — the peninsula of north-western France, between the Channel and the Bay of BiscayBretonBuckwheat and salted butter, the catch of a long, rocky coast, and pancakes cooked thin on a hot iron plate.7 classicsSouth Louisiana — the Mississippi delta, the bayous and the prairies along the Gulf of MexicoCreole and CajunA dark roux, the holy trinity of onion, celery and green pepper, rice under nearly everything and shellfish from the bayou — city Creole and country Cajun, cooking side by side.10 classics

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