The market · Vegetables · Northern and Central Europe, France and the north-west

Samphire

Marsh samphire, or glasswort: jointed, bright green stems from tidal mud, salty and crisp, like asparagus tips from the sea.

salty · crunchy · green

Kinds

Marsh samphire
The one fishmongers sell; summer.
Rock samphire
A different plant from sea cliffs, aromatic and resinous; rarely sold.

Goes with

butterwhite fishlemonlamb

Knowing it

Where to buy
Fishmongers and coastal markets in summer: bright and springy, not limp. Imported bunches turn up out of season, tougher.
Worth knowing
Don't salt the water. Blanch it for a minute, or just toss it in butter — overcooked it's stringy. Pull the tender green off any woody core with your teeth, like an artichoke leaf.

More vegetables, in season with it