The market · Vegetables · Northern and Central Europe, France and the north-west, Southern Europe
White asparagus
Asparagus grown under mounded earth so it never sees light — thicker, milder and more bittersweet than green, and a season-long obsession in Germany, the Low Countries and Alsace.
Growers and markets in season: thick, glossy spears with closed tips, and moist cut ends. Fresh ones squeak when rubbed together.
Worth knowing
Peel it thoroughly from just below the tip — the skin is bitter and stringy — and snap off the woody base. Simmer the peelings and ends with a pinch of sugar and salt, strain, and cook the spears in that water until just tender: 10–15 minutes for thick ones.