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The market
· Spices · East Asia, Southeast Asia, Northern and Central Europe
White pepper
Ripe peppercorns with the skin soaked off — sharper heat, less perfume, and a musty edge some love.
pungent · earthy · musty
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Javanese
Lumpia Semarang
Spring rolls filled with bamboo shoot, egg and prawn, fried or left soft, with a thick sweet garlic sauce and whole spring onion.
No one here has made it yet
Minahasan
Brenebon
A thick soup of red kidney beans with pork, nutmeg and clove, a Minahasan descendant of Dutch brown-bean soup.
No one here has made it yet
Cantonese
Congee
Rice simmered in plenty of water until the grains break down into a smooth, silky porridge, with something savoury stirred in.
No one here has made it yet
Cantonese
Wonton noodle soup
Thin, springy egg noodles and prawn wontons in a clear broth, finished with a few chives.
No one here has made it yet
Cantonese
Siu mai
Open-topped dumplings of pork and prawn in a thin yellow wrapper, steamed, and often dotted on top with fish roe or a little carrot.
No one here has made it yet
Cantonese
Pork chop bun
A marinated pork chop, beaten thin and fried, pressed into a crusty split roll — Macau's favourite snack.
No one here has made it yet
Teochew
Teochew fish balls
White, bouncy balls of fish paste beaten by hand, cooked in simmering water and served in clear soup or with noodles.
No one here has made it yet
Shandong
Nine-turn intestines
Short lengths of pork intestine, cleaned, blanched, fried and then braised down in sugar, vinegar and soy until glossy — sweet, sour, salty, peppery and faintly bitter at once.
No one here has made it yet
Huaiyang
Yangzhou fried rice
Day-old rice fried with egg, prawns, ham, peas and spring onion — each grain separate and coated.
No one here has made it yet
Fujian
Oyster omelette
Small oysters fried in a sweet potato starch batter with eggs — crisp in places, soft and gooey in others.
No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic rye
Gravlax
Raw salmon cured for a few days under salt, sugar and dill, sliced thin and served with a sweet mustard sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic rye
Köttbullar
Small meatballs of beef and pork with onion and milk-soaked breadcrumbs, browned in butter and served with cream sauce, lingonberries and potatoes.
No one here has made it yet
Goes with
egg
pork
chicken stock
potato
Cooked with, here
–8 hours ahead marinate the fish
butter
caper
chopped parsley
flaky salt
golden raisin
granny smith apple
hour ahead soak raisin
How much, here
Shio Koji–Mirin Halibut
White pepper
Daryl
Knowing it
Where to buy
Chinese and Southeast Asian grocers.
Worth knowing
The pepper for hot and sour soup, congee and pale sauces where black specks would show.
Kitchens that keep it in
Guangdong and Hong Kong, southern China
Cantonese
The cooking of Guangzhou and Hong Kong: very fresh things cooked briefly and seasoned lightly, so they taste of themselves.
11 classics
Jiangsu province and the lower Yangtze, eastern China
Huaiyang
Delicate and exact: fine knife work, clear stocks and a gentle sweetness, cooked to bring out an ingredient's own flavour rather than to cover it.
7 classics
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earthy, peppery
2 classics
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thyme-like, sharp, bitter
8 classics
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warm, sweet-spiced, peppery
2 classics
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Asafoetida
pungent, sulphurous, garlicky when cooked
12 classics
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