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The market
· Dairy and eggs · Northern and Central Europe
Double cream
The richest pouring cream, around 48% fat.
rich · milky
What to do with it
Rosa Ibarra's Clarified milk punch, mezcal and pineapple
Double cream would soften its edge
Ibu Sari's Sambal ijo
Double cream would soften its edge
Kenji Hara's Milk punch, with hojicha
Double cream would soften its edge
Classics built on it
Punjabi
Butter chicken
Tandoori chicken simmered in a mild, silky sauce of tomato, butter and cream, scented with dried fenugreek.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Dal makhani
Whole black lentils and kidney beans, simmered for hours with butter, tomato and cream until thick and velvety.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Mohan maas
Mutton cooked slowly in milk and cream with cardamom and ground cashews — the mild, rich dish of Rajasthan's royal kitchens.
No one here has made it yet
Basque
Goxua
A dessert in a small glass: whipped cream, then sponge soaked in syrup, then custard, with the top burnt to caramel.
No one here has made it yet
Lyonnais
Quenelles de brochet
Light dumplings of pike and a flour-and-egg panade, poached and then baked until they puff, usually in a crayfish sauce Nantua.
No one here has made it yet
Lyonnais
Gratin dauphinois
Thinly sliced potatoes baked slowly in milk and cream with garlic, until soft underneath and golden on top.
No one here has made it yet
Lyonnais
Tarte aux pralines
A pastry case filled with crushed pink sugared almonds melted into cream, which sets into a glossy, vivid pink filling.
No one here has made it yet
Norman
Sole normande
Sole poached in wine or cider and fish stock, garnished with mussels, prawns and mushrooms, in a sauce of the reduced liquor with cream and egg yolks.
No one here has made it yet
Norman
Omelette de la Mère Poulard
Eggs beaten long and hard, then cooked over a wood fire in a long-handled pan with plenty of butter, until tall and airy, like a soufflé.
No one here has made it yet
Norman
Marmite dieppoise
Channel fish and shellfish — sole, scallops, mussels, prawns — cooked in a broth of leeks and white wine or cider, finished with cream.
No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic rye
Köttbullar
Small meatballs of beef and pork with onion and milk-soaked breadcrumbs, browned in butter and served with cream sauce, lingonberries and potatoes.
No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic rye
Bergensk fiskesuppe
A pale, creamy fish soup of white fish and root vegetables, finished with a little vinegar and sugar, often with fish balls in it.
No one here has made it yet
Nordic and Baltic rye
Lohikeitto
A creamy Finnish soup of salmon, potatoes and leek in a light stock, with plenty of dill and whole allspice.
No one here has made it yet
Creole and Cajun
Pralines
Flat, fudgy discs of brown sugar, cream and butter set round pecans — soft, sugary and grainy at once.
No one here has made it yet
Kinds
Single
About 18% fat — won't whip.
Whipping
About 36%.
Double
About 48% — the most butter per litre.
Clotted
About 55%, cooked slowly until it crusts.
If you can't find it
In the US and elsewhere, heavy cream or whipping cream.
1
Heavy cream
The same
You lose
a little fat — double is around 48%, heavy around 36%. It whips and holds a sauce just fine.
Goes with
mushroom
vanilla
butter
Cooked with, here
flaky salt
oak chip
How much, here
Oak-smoked butter
1l double cream
Ida Fenwick · 99% of the dish
What cooks here have learned
“
Rested the cream overnight before churning
”
Ida Fenwick · Oak-smoked butter v4
Knowing it
Where to buy
Supermarkets; unhomogenised from farm dairies, which churns more easily.
Worth knowing
For butter, let it sit near room temperature first — cold cream takes far longer to break.
Kitchens that keep it in
Lyon and its hinterland — the Rhône and Saône valleys, from Bresse to the Dauphiné
Lyonnais
A city's cooking, rich and unfussy: pork and offal in the bouchons, cream and butter from Bresse, fish from the rivers, and the wines of the Beaujolais to wash it down.
9 classics
Normandy — north-western France, along the Channel from the Seine to Mont-Saint-Michel
Norman
Butter, cream, apples and the sea: orchards turned into cider and Calvados, pastures into Camembert and Livarot, and shellfish and sole from the Channel.
9 classics
More dairy and eggs
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Aged gouda
butterscotch, nutty, crystalline
savoury
Not cooked here yet
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Burrata
milky, creamy, fresh
Not cooked here yet
Dairy and eggs
Butter
creamy, nutty when browned
rich
In Pierogi ruskie, Comté French Toast Bites and 1 more · 79 classics
Dairy and eggs
Comté
nutty, brothy, fruity
savoury
rich
2 classics
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