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The market
· Grains and flours · Northern and Central Europe
Plain flour
All-purpose wheat flour, around 10% protein.
neutral
What to do with it
Classics built on it
Minahasan
Klappertaart
A soft baked custard of young coconut, milk and eggs, with raisins and cinnamon, often topped with almonds or meringue.
No one here has made it yet
Minahasan
Panada
A soft yeasted dough folded around spiced, shredded skipjack and fried golden.
No one here has made it yet
Malaysian
Roti canai
A flaky, chewy flatbread of dough spun paper-thin, folded and griddled with ghee, torn and dipped in dal and curry.
No one here has made it yet
Cantonese
Egg tart
A small tart of short or flaky pastry filled with a smooth, just-set egg custard, eaten warm.
No one here has made it yet
Cantonese
Pineapple bun
A soft, sweet bread roll under a crackled, sugary crust — named for how the top looks, with no pineapple in it.
No one here has made it yet
Shandong
Shandong jianbing
A paper-thin sheet of millet, corn or wheat batter, cooked dry and crisp on a wide iron griddle, and rolled around a whole spring onion and sweet bean sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Shanghainese
Xiaolongbao
Small, thin-skinned steamed buns of minced pork, pleated at the top and full of hot soup, served in the bamboo basket they cooked in.
No one here has made it yet
Shanghainese
Shengjian bao
Small risen pork buns fried in a wide, shallow pan, steamed under a lid, so their bottoms go crisp and golden while the tops stay soft.
No one here has made it yet
Anhui
Huangshan shaobing
A small, flaky, round pastry filled with preserved mustard greens and fatty pork, crusted with sesame and baked against the wall of a charcoal oven.
No one here has made it yet
Beijing
Peking duck
A whole duck, its skin dried and glazed, roasted until it shatters, then carved at the table and wrapped in thin pancakes with sweet bean sauce, spring onion and cucumber.
No one here has made it yet
Beijing
Goubuli baozi
Small steamed buns of half-raised dough, pleated tightly over a juicy pork filling loosened with stock.
No one here has made it yet
Beijing
Jiaozi
Crescent dumplings of thin wheat dough around pork and chives or cabbage, boiled and dipped in black vinegar with garlic.
No one here has made it yet
Japanese
Tonkatsu
A thick pork cutlet in flour, egg and coarse panko, deep-fried until crisp, sliced, and served with shredded cabbage and a thick, fruity sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Japanese
Okonomiyaki
A thick savoury pancake of batter and shredded cabbage with pork belly, cooked on a griddle and finished with sweet-sour sauce, mayonnaise, aonori and bonito flakes.
No one here has made it yet
Korean
Hotteok
A yeasted pancake, pressed flat on a griddle around brown sugar, cinnamon and nuts that melt into a molten syrup.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Chole bhature
Chickpeas cooked dark, sharp and spicy, with bhature — big, puffed breads of soured dough, deep-fried.
No one here has made it yet
Punjabi
Amritsari kulcha
A leavened flatbread stuffed with spiced potato, pressed with coriander seed, slapped onto the wall of a tandoor and served dripping with butter beside chole.
No one here has made it yet
Bengali
Luchi
Small, pale, puffed breads of white flour and ghee, deep-fried in seconds — Bengal's breakfast and festival bread, eaten with potatoes, dal or kosha mangsho.
No one here has made it yet
Bengali
Kolkata kathi roll
A flaky paratha fried with a beaten egg on one side, then rolled around skewered kebab, raw onion, green chilli and lime — Kolkata's street food.
No one here has made it yet
Goan
Bebinca
A tall cake of many thin layers — coconut milk, egg yolks, sugar and flour, with ghee between them — each baked under a grill before the next is poured.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Ghevar
A lacy, honeycombed disc of batter fried in ghee, soaked in syrup and often topped with rabri and nuts.
No one here has made it yet
Rajasthani
Pyaaz kachori
A flaky, deep-fried pastry filled with onion cooked down with fennel, coriander seed and chilli, eaten with tamarind and mint chutneys.
No one here has made it yet
Turkish
Lahmacun
A round of dough rolled very thin, spread with raw minced lamb, onion, pepper and tomato, and baked for a minute or two in a very hot oven.
No one here has made it yet
Turkish
Mantı
Tiny meat-filled dumplings, boiled and served under garlicky yoghurt, with butter sizzled with red pepper poured over.
No one here has made it yet
Georgian
Khachapuri
Bread filled with salty, melting cheese — the everyday food of Georgia, in a different shape in every region.
No one here has made it yet
Georgian
Khinkali
Large pleated dumplings of spiced minced meat that fill with broth as they boil, eaten by hand.
No one here has made it yet
Georgian
Kubdari
A round, closed bread from Svaneti filled with hand-chopped beef or pork, onion and Svan salt, baked until the juices soak into the crust.
No one here has made it yet
Moroccan
Harira
A soup of tomato, lentils, chickpeas and a little lamb, thick with herbs and thickened at the end with flour, served with lemon and dates.
No one here has made it yet
Moroccan
Msemen
Square, flaky pan-fried flatbreads, folded over oil, butter and semolina, eaten with honey and butter and mint tea.
No one here has made it yet
Nigerian
Puff-puff
Soft, round balls of sweet yeasted dough, deep-fried until brown and puffed — street snack and party food.
No one here has made it yet
Cape Malay
Koesisters
Soft, spiced, doughnut-like dumplings, fried, dipped in syrup and rolled in coconut — for Sunday morning.
No one here has made it yet
Cape Malay
Cape Malay pickled fish
Fried fish layered with onions cooked in curry-spiced vinegar, left for days to pickle, and eaten cold at Easter.
No one here has made it yet
Basque
Gâteau basque
A short, buttery almond pastry baked around a filling of pastry cream or black cherry jam, the top glazed and scored.
No one here has made it yet
Andalusian
Rabo de toro
Oxtail browned and stewed slowly in red wine with onions, peppers and carrots until the meat falls from the bone and the sauce turns thick and glossy.
No one here has made it yet
Andalusian
Flamenquín
Thin slices of pork loin rolled around jamón, breadcrumbed and fried into a long golden roll.
No one here has made it yet
Galician
Empanada gallega
A large, flat pie of bread-like dough filled with onions and peppers stewed in olive oil and tuna, pork or shellfish, baked and cut into squares.
No one here has made it yet
Castilian and Madrid
Patatas bravas
Chunks of fried potato with a hot, pimentón-red sauce — the bar tapa found all over Spain.
No one here has made it yet
Castilian and Madrid
Churros con chocolate
Ridged strips of fried dough, crisp outside and soft within, dipped into thick hot chocolate.
No one here has made it yet
Castilian and Madrid
Callos a la madrileña
Beef tripe stewed slowly with chorizo, morcilla and jamón in a thick, sticky, pimentón-red sauce.
No one here has made it yet
Castilian and Madrid
Bocadillo de calamares
Rings of squid, floured and fried, packed into a crusty white roll — Madrid's cheap, much-loved sandwich.
No one here has made it yet
Asturian
Cachopo
Two large, thin veal fillets sandwiched around ham and cheese, breadcrumbed and fried, and served big enough to share, with chips and peppers.
No one here has made it yet
Asturian
Casadielles
Little turnovers of wine-and-lard pastry filled with ground walnuts, sugar and anise, fried and rolled in sugar.
No one here has made it yet
Asturian
Pixín frito
Monkfish — pixín in Asturian — cut into chunks, marinated with garlic and lemon, then floured, dipped in egg and fried.
No one here has made it yet
Provençal
Navettes
Hard, boat-shaped biscuits scented with orange-flower water, dunked in coffee.
No one here has made it yet
Lyonnais
Quenelles de brochet
Light dumplings of pike and a flour-and-egg panade, poached and then baked until they puff, usually in a crayfish sauce Nantua.
No one here has made it yet
Lyonnais
Tarte aux pralines
A pastry case filled with crushed pink sugared almonds melted into cream, which sets into a glossy, vivid pink filling.
No one here has made it yet
Lyonnais
Bugnes
Strips of enriched dough fried until puffed and crisp, dusted heavily with icing sugar, made for Carnival.
No one here has made it yet
Lyonnais
Ravioles du Dauphiné
Tiny squares of pasta filled with cheese, fromage blanc and parsley, poached in stock for a minute or baked in cream.
No one here has made it yet
Alsatian
Tarte flambée
Bread dough rolled paper-thin, spread with fromage blanc and cream, scattered with onion and bacon, and baked in seconds in a blazing oven.
No one here has made it yet
Alsatian
Kougelhopf
A tall, fluted ring of buttery yeasted dough with raisins soaked in kirsch, an almond set in each fold, dusted with icing sugar.
No one here has made it yet
Alsatian
Spaetzle
Soft little egg noodles made from a thick batter pushed through a board or press into boiling water, then tossed in butter.
No one here has made it yet
Alsatian
Bredele
Small Christmas biscuits baked by the tinful — butter shapes, anise, cinnamon stars, spiced and almond ones — through Advent.
No one here has made it yet
Alsatian
Fleischschnacka
Fresh pasta spread with minced cooked beef, onion and herbs, rolled up, sliced into spirals like snails, and browned before simmering in stock.
No one here has made it yet
Norman
Tarte normande
Apples in a pastry case, covered in a custard of eggs, cream and sugar, often laced with Calvados, baked until just set.
No one here has made it yet
Burgundian
Bœuf bourguignon
Beef braised slowly in red Burgundy with bacon, small onions and mushrooms until it falls apart.
No one here has made it yet
Burgundian
Coq au vin
A cockerel or chicken braised in red wine with bacon, mushrooms and small onions, the sauce thickened with its own juices.
No one here has made it yet
Burgundian
Œufs en meurette
Eggs poached in red wine and served in its sauce, reduced with shallots and bacon, on fried bread.
No one here has made it yet
Burgundian
Gougères
Choux pastry beaten with grated cheese and baked into light, hollow puffs, eaten warm with a glass of wine.
No one here has made it yet
Burgundian
Pain d'épices de Dijon
A dense, spiced honey loaf that keeps for weeks, sliced thin and eaten with butter or with foie gras.
No one here has made it yet
Gascon and the South-West
Pastis gascon
Apples soaked in Armagnac under layers of pastry stretched by hand until you can see through it, the top sheets ruffled and crisp.
No one here has made it yet
Gascon and the South-West
Canelé
A small fluted cake with a thick, dark caramelised crust around a soft custard middle, scented with rum and vanilla.
No one here has made it yet
Breton
Crêpes bretonnes
Thin wheat-flour pancakes, cooked on a billig and eaten with salted butter and sugar, jam or salted-butter caramel.
No one here has made it yet
Breton
Kouign-amann
Bread dough folded with layers of salted butter and sugar and baked until the outside caramelises into a sticky, crackling crust.
No one here has made it yet
Breton
Far breton
A dense, custardy flan of eggs, milk and flour, baked firm, usually with prunes soaked in the batter.
No one here has made it yet
Breton
Palets bretons
Thick, crumbly biscuits made rich and slightly salty with plenty of salted butter and egg yolks.
No one here has made it yet
Greek
Moussaka
Layers of fried aubergine and minced lamb or beef in a cinnamon-scented tomato sauce, under a thick crust of béchamel, baked.
No one here has made it yet
Greek
Pastitsio
Long tubes of pasta layered with a spiced meat sauce under thick béchamel, baked and cut in tall squares.
No one here has made it yet
Polish
Pierogi ruskie
Boiled dumplings filled with potato, twaróg cheese and fried onion, finished with more onion in butter.
1 version here
Polish
Placki ziemniaczane
Grated raw potato and onion bound with egg and a little flour, fried in thin cakes until lacy and crisp.
No one here has made it yet
Polish
Pączki
Rich, yeasted doughnuts filled with rose-petal jam or plum, glazed or sugared — the food of Fat Thursday.
No one here has made it yet
Polish
Rogal świętomarciński
A large crescent of flaky yeast pastry filled with white poppy seed, almonds, nuts and dried fruit, glazed and scattered with nuts.
No one here has made it yet
Creole and Cajun
Gumbo
A thick, dark stew-soup built on a roux and the holy trinity, with meat or seafood, served over rice.
No one here has made it yet
Creole and Cajun
Crawfish étouffée
Crawfish tails smothered in butter, the holy trinity and a little stock, into a thick, rich sauce over rice.
No one here has made it yet
Creole and Cajun
Po'boy
A long New Orleans loaf — crackly crust, feather-light inside — filled with fried prawns or oysters, or roast beef in gravy.
No one here has made it yet
Creole and Cajun
Beignets
Squares of yeasted dough fried until puffed and hollow, buried under icing sugar, eaten hot with café au lait.
No one here has made it yet
Jamaican
Jamaican beef patty
A half-moon of flaky, turmeric-yellow pastry filled with spiced, peppery minced beef.
No one here has made it yet
Jamaican
Festival
A sweet, fried cornmeal dumpling, crisp outside and soft inside, served beside jerk and fried fish.
No one here has made it yet
Peruvian
Picarones
Rings of squash and sweet potato dough, fried and drenched in a spiced syrup of chancaca.
No one here has made it yet
Brazilian
Coxinha
A teardrop-shaped croquette of shredded chicken wrapped in a dough made with its own stock, breaded and fried.
No one here has made it yet
Kinds
Plain
For soft doughs, sauces, pastry.
Polish typ 450 or 500
Fine, soft flour traditional for pierogi.
Strong / bread
More protein — too chewy here.
Goes with
butter
egg
Cooked with, here
butter
onion
potato
twaróg
How much, here
Pierogi ruskie
500g plain flour
Mira Kowalski · 25% of the dish
Knowing it
Where to buy
Supermarkets; Polish delis for typ 450.
Kitchens that keep it in
Brittany — the peninsula of north-western France, between the Channel and the Bay of Biscay
Breton
Buckwheat and salted butter, the catch of a long, rocky coast, and pancakes cooked thin on a hot iron plate.
7 classics
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fragrant, nutty
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earthy, nutty, toasty
Not cooked here yet
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Bulgur
nutty
2 classics
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